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Stemming while Reaching for a Jam

 
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Stemming while Reaching for a Jam
Our 'crag neighbors' gave me a belay on this rope they setup on a fun 10c called 'Et tu Brutus'with lots of stemming and arm jamming. Great fun at Shelf Road.

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rpc2 bolts next to #3 camalot crack?

rpc

Voted 10/10

is that common practice in that area? Is that limestone & if so, is that the reason?
Nice shot BTW.
Posted May 4, 2007 11:13 am

Dan DaltonRe: 2 bolts next to #3 camalot crack?

Dan Dalton

Hasn't voted

Yeah, it is pretty wierd here. I came and was a little disgusted by how many cracks have been bolted. This is a really fun 10d called Cactus Cliff Addict. The last 30 feet or so is on faceholds on the wall above the crack that would be difficult to protect with gear.

You are correct, this is limestone and can be a little chossy, but the reason everything here is bolted is due to tradition. This area arose early 1980 and was well developed by people such as Goddard who spent a lot of time on the bolted limestones of France.

Since this area is a pure sport area, I don't mind it too much anymore, you will never see bolts getting chopped here.

Thanks for the comment hope that clarifies things a little,

Dan
Posted May 5, 2007 10:07 am

rpcRe: 2 bolts next to #3 camalot crack?

rpc

Voted 10/10

thanks Dan. Nice TR BTW.
Posted May 7, 2007 1:28 pm

MTWShelf Road

MTW

Voted 10/10

is awesome. I lived in CO Springs last summer and loved climbing there.
Posted Jul 27, 2007 12:17 pm

Dan DaltonRe: Shelf Road

Dan Dalton

Hasn't voted

Yeah, it is pretty much my limestone climbing mecca other than Rifle.

Dan
Posted Jul 28, 2007 10:33 am

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Dan DaltonSubmitted by Dan Dalton
on Apr 5, 2007 1:16 am

Image ID: 282785
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Object Title: Stemming while Reaching for a Jam

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing