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markhyamsStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 1999


Snowed on the summit that day. After summitting, I hiked out to Purgatory, making for a 20-mile day.
Posted Mar 3, 2006 1:02 am

LSRoute Climbed: standard Date Climbed: 03-sep-2005  Sucess!


See the trip-report here: http://distantpeak.com/web/mountains/n-america/mount_eolus
Posted Dec 26, 2005 4:42 pm

doumallRoute Climbed: Standard from Chicago Basin Date Climbed: September 24th, 2005  Sucess!


Summit block gave me a semi :) Too much wind for my comfort to stand, next time. Not the hardest 14er in Colorado by any means... 57th 14er!
Posted Nov 11, 2005 6:06 pm

SiberianSayanRoute Climbed: From Chicago Lakes Date Climbed: 1997?  Sucess!


Hated the scree. Much preferred the previous day on Eolus, though the weather was beautiful.
Posted Nov 6, 2005 4:16 pm

HobbesgirlRoute Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: August 3, 2005  Sucess!


A challenging climb, but well worth it!
Posted Oct 21, 2005 1:38 pm

POWERJLRoute Climbed: Red Coulior Date Climbed: August 26, 1998  Sucess!
Camped at Chicago basin first night, then made the climb to the upper basin for the second night just under Eolus. Summited Sunlight and Windom, leaving Eolus for the next day. Unfortunatly my girlfriend got a touch of Altitude sickness, and while she encouraged me to do Eulous without her, I was a good boyfriend and we hiked out. So, I'll have to go back! It's a wonderful hike, and the solitude is great!

Watch out for Marmots! A funny story: (No This is NOT an Advert. for Marmot Mtn Works!) When we were approching our tent after summitting, we heard some rustling from within. As we got closer (Ice axes at the ready of course) a couple of large Marmots came scurrying out of the tent.

Upon arriving at the tent and inspeting the damage, they had cut a hole in our Tent, (North Face), torn up a couple shirts (North Face), my girlfriend's sports-bra, (yep, you guessed it, also North Face), and tore a North Face jacket.

What was not touched: Two Marmot Mtn Works down sleeping bags, a Marmot Mtn Wrks coat, and a Marmot Mtn works T-shit as well as some long underwear.

I guess they [marmots] didn't like the competition!

Anyway, its a beautiful climb, and I am looking forward to my return when I will complete Eolus! The train ride is really cool!

Jeff Power

Brenna Owen
Posted Aug 18, 2005 4:04 pm

jhansen007Route Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: August 7, 2005  Sucess!


One of the most enjoyable 14ers I've done to date. Lots of fun class 3 scrambling through big clunky blocks. The view when you pop outa the keyhole is amazing. The last few hops to the final summit block are kinda exposed. Didn't use a rope, but jumping down from the summit blocks made my palms all sweaty like a schoolgirl. Seemed to be multiple routes on the south slopes. There are cairns everywhere, routefinding is quite easy.
Posted Aug 13, 2005 10:18 pm

mtnhiker13Route Climbed: red colouir and class 4 Date Climbed: August 7, 2005  Sucess!


We managed to get into the class 4 climbing near the summit and we loved it! The final jump to the summit rock was exilirating. Loved this mountain.
Posted Aug 12, 2005 3:34 pm

GarethRoute Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: August 3, 2005  Sucess!


Lots of fun! Be sure to look carefully for the route near the top. Defiantly the most thrilling summit to stand up on!
Posted Aug 9, 2005 11:15 pm

jvossRoute Climbed: Red couloir Date Climbed: July 21, 2005  Sucess!


Climbed in combo with Windom. Snow, snow, and more snow! Bring your Yaxtrax (crampons are overkill) gators, ice axe AND something to use for glissading.

Crowded Chicago basin was lacking for available campsites and the mountain goats are downright agressive. Be sure to check out the old mine on the left side right after the main crossing of the stream.

Climb on!
Posted Aug 1, 2005 1:15 pm

highadventure15Route Climbed: South Slope Date Climbed: July 15 2004  Sucess!
I climbed this in combination with Mount Eolus and I wanted to climb Windom but weather set in as we summitted Sunlight. This was a day hike as a part of a larger backpacking trip. The climb was tough but the summit block wasnt, I easily gained access to it and spent a good share of my summit time up there. I love these 3 peaks, they are remote and a blast to climb.
Posted Jul 4, 2005 12:16 pm

Larry VRoute Climbed: south slopes Date Climbed: July 1995  Sucess!

Larry V

Early morning snow climb (1995 was a big snow year) from our camp site at 12,400'. Good conditions - did Sunlight, Windom and Eolus, then moved campsite back down into the trees. Climbed with Aaron P. Enjoyed the train ride.
Posted Feb 6, 2005 11:27 pm

bakcastRoute Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!


There is nothing quite like looking off of the NF into the beutiful Needles!
Posted Nov 17, 2004 9:59 pm

bc44caesarRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: 11 Sep 2004  Sucess!


Climbed up the classic West Ridge in beautiful weather. Snow on the northern aspects complicated things slightly at the start, but most of the route was a real joy and a lot better than the slog up the South Face!
Posted Sep 15, 2004 8:53 am

DaveCRoute Climbed: red couloir Date Climbed: sept 99  Sucess!


had the day to myself, this late in the year. came over from windom, and the weather held for a late (3pm) summit. just me and the marmot.
Posted May 21, 2004 9:37 pm

f360driverRoute Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: August/03  Sucess!


Great climbing experience. This mountain is true wilderness adventure.
Posted Apr 14, 2004 6:52 pm

coloradoiceclimberRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: September 2, 2001  Sucess!


This is one of the coolest looking 14ers that I have climbed so far!! After summiting I headed for Windom Peak to meet Zach and Erica and to complete the 3rd peak of a very successfull weekend!!
Posted Apr 10, 2004 5:34 pm

RyanSRoute Climbed: standard Date Climbed: July 3, 2003  Sucess!


Didn't think I'd make the summit block, but I with some encouragement, I stood triumphant. A trip report is available here.
Posted Apr 9, 2004 5:39 pm

xskier77Route Climbed: All over the place Date Climbed: July 13,2003  Sucess!


Summmited Eolus, then N Eolus and then over to Sunlight. Routefinding is key on this peak and we managed to get off route a few times and this put us into 4th and 5th class climbing. We got pretty close to the summit along the ridge that connects the spire and were faced with about 20 ft vertical class 5 wall. I went ahead and climbed it without any protection and thinking about it today gave me chills. The actual summit block was alot of fun and I had heard of a guy who did the Daniel San pose on the summit so I thought I'd give it a try.
Posted Feb 1, 2004 9:44 pm

Matt MahoneyRoute Climbed: South slopes and E ridge from Purgatory Date Climbed: July 14, 2003  Sucess!

Matt Mahoney

Summitted at 5 PM 12 hours after leaving Purgatory on a 22 hour day hike. I summitted Eolus about noon and Windom about 6:30 PM in dry weather. Went up nice slabs to the wrong side of the ridge (toward Sunlight Spire) and met up with some rock climbers who offered me a belay up a chimney, but after 90 minutes we realized it would be easier to traverse around to the other side of the ridge on class 3/4 rock. The move onto the summit block was tricky but not as hard or scary as I imagined. The hardest move is just after the register where you climb a 45 deg. slab up 10 ft. It is easier if you get some momentum and grab the top edge. From there you can traverse right, get on top, then step across the gap and mantle up onto the summit. Trip report.
Posted Jul 27, 2003 10:32 pm

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