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Super Hits-Bloody Fingers Wall, 5.6-5.10b
Mountain/Rock

Super Hits-Bloody Fingers Wall, 5.6-5.10b

 
Super Hits-Bloody Fingers Wall, 5.6-5.10b

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Idaho, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 42.08731°N / 113.72924°W

Object Title: Super Hits-Bloody Fingers Wall, 5.6-5.10b

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 6400 ft / 1951 m

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Jul 2, 2012 / Feb 28, 2013

Object ID: 798457

Hits: 1226 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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Overview

 
Bloody Fingers, 5.10a
Bloody Fingers, 5.10a

Bloody Fingers wall is home to one of the better crack pitches at City of Rocks, its namesake, Bloody Fingers (5.10a). The Falcon Guide claims that Intruding Dike (5.7) is another classic crack pitch (“super classic”) on this wall, but I beg to differ. The difference between the two routes, in comparison to other routes within their grade, is enormous. Bloody Fingers is superb from bottom to top, following one of the finer splitters in the park. Whereas Intruding Dike is broken up by a chasm and offers little in the way of 5.7 sustained climbing.

Bloody Fingers (aka Super Hits) wall is a small east facing wall located between Upper Breadloaves East and Lower Breadloaves East. Salt Lake City’s gym crowd hones in on the west faces of Breadloaves, in particularly what is known as Decadent Wall. For that reason I would be wary of trying to climb Bloody Fingers on the weekend during prime season at the City of Rocks. Even though most of these folks don’t appear capable of climbing a trad route at this grade, they can easily top rope it from the top of Intruding Dike. All of the select routes listed below (7) face east and get good morning sun.

Route Description(s)

 
City of Rocks
 
 
Bloody Fingers, 5.10a
 

EAST FACE
Select Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

  • Double Vision- 5.10a/

  • October- 5.8/

  • Bloody Fingers- 5.10a/
  • My first route at the City and it is a good one. Place gear at will up the splitter. Bloody Fingers is quite aesthetic to look at from the road. My second via the first time I climbed it did bloody his fingers, thus the name no doubt. If you are used to finger cracks, that shouldn’t be an issue. There are plenty of gratuitous hand jams as well. This is not the hardest 5.10a in the park by a long shot. Full rack to hands. 70m rope definitely works, 60m might as well. Dow

  • New Toy- 5.10bR/

  • Chimney- 5.6/

  • Twist and Crawl- 5.8X/
  • We did that twist & crawl 5.8 line last summer (2011) & it was not X (anymore? yet? ever..not sure which?) - tightly bolted to a well protected 8' long crack/trad finish. Radek

  • Intruding Dike- 5.7/
  • Not that impressed. Not sustained for the grade. Do not understand the high rating and popularity. I did do Bloody Fingers first, perhaps that blurred my vision, but I don't think so. Worth skipping out on for sure. Hand crack through bulge, than stem over chasm to second wall and follow 5th class to top. Can rap Bloody Fingers straight down from the summit with a 70m if not a 60m as well if no one is on it or walk off the south. Dow

    External Links

  • City of Rocks National Reserve
  • Castle Rock State Park
  • Rock City, the place for beers

    Images

    Twist And CrawlBloody Fingers, 5.10aCity of RocksBloody FingersBloody Fingers, 5.10aBloody Fingers, 5.10a