Bloody Fingers wall is home to one of the better crack pitches at City of Rocks, its namesake, Bloody Fingers (5.10a). The Falcon Guide claims that Intruding Dike (5.7) is another classic crack pitch (“super classic”) on this wall, but I beg to differ. The difference between the two routes, in comparison to other routes within their grade, is enormous. Bloody Fingers is superb from bottom to top, following one of the finer splitters in the park. Whereas Intruding Dike is broken up by a chasm and offers little in the way of 5.7 sustained climbing.
Bloody Fingers (aka Super Hits) wall is a small east facing wall located between Upper Breadloaves East and Lower Breadloaves East. Salt Lake City’s gym crowd hones in on the west faces of Breadloaves, in particularly what is known as Decadent Wall. For that reason I would be wary of trying to climb Bloody Fingers on the weekend during prime season at the City of Rocks. Even though most of these folks don’t appear capable of climbing a trad route at this grade, they can easily top rope it from the top of Intruding Dike. All of the select routes listed below (7) face east and get good morning sun.
EAST FACE Select Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall
Double Vision- 5.10a/
Bloody Fingers- 5.10a/
My first route at the City and it is a good one. Place gear at will up the splitter. Bloody Fingers is quite aesthetic to look at from the road. My second via the first time I climbed it did bloody his fingers, thus the name no doubt. If you are used to finger cracks, that shouldn’t be an issue. There are plenty of gratuitous hand jams as well. This is not the hardest 5.10a in the park by a long shot. Full rack to hands. 70m rope definitely works, 60m might as well. Dow
New Toy- 5.10bR/
Twist and Crawl- 5.8X/
We did that twist & crawl 5.8 line last summer (2011) & it was not X (anymore? yet? ever..not sure which?) - tightly bolted to a well protected 8' long crack/trad finish. Radek
Intruding Dike- 5.7/
Not that impressed. Not sustained for the grade. Do not understand the high rating and popularity. I did do Bloody Fingers first, perhaps that blurred my vision, but I don't think so. Worth skipping out on for sure. Hand crack through bulge, than stem over chasm to second wall and follow 5th class to top. Can rap Bloody Fingers straight down from the summit with a 70m if not a 60m as well if no one is on it or walk off the south. Dow
""You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.""