Easiest approach is from the parking lot and across the bridge. From the bridge you follow the trail directly in front of you up several small switchbacks eventually reaching the base of the wall. It is easier from here to follow the base of the wall around to the base of the route rather than follow the main trail lower on the slope although having to go up and down a few times.
The start of the route may be difficult to locate but is distinguishable by starting just to the left of a large recess and to the right of a bolted arete.
This is a very popular climb of its rating.
Pitch 1 (5.6) Ascend a ramp past a bulge to a well defined belay ledge.
This ledge is huge containing two seperate anchor chains as well as ample areas to protect with trad gear.
Pitch 2 (5.3) This pitch goes more left than up.(Probably only about 10' of height gain) Ascend off of the belay ledge and move immediately left toward a belay behind a block. This pitch is difficult to protect but handholds are bomber. NOTE: If you are not far enough to the left the route will become nearly impossible to protect.
Pitch 3 (5.6) This is a long pitch that follows the main crack to a climbers left. Alan Watt's Guide states gear to 2.5" but there is a short section that a #4 Camalot protects well. Follow the crack up until it tops out.
Descent: Two ways to descend
1: Double rope rappel to a large ledge below the belay ledge for the 3rd pitch off of bolted anchors-Short rappel off of slings to the ground
2: Scramble up a difficult 5.7 unexposed slab and make your way up and then down Misery Ridge
(Much Easier to rappel)
Make sure to bring an extra rope for the rappel. (A 60m will leave you about 15 feet shy of the belay ledge)
Quickdraws just don't work well for this route. Use runners (at least 12") due to the rope drag.
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