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SW Face "Direct"

SW Face "Direct"

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SW Face "Direct"

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.21110°N / 116.355°W

Object Title: SW Face "Direct"

Route Type: Scrambling

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.0 (YDS)

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: MoabPeakBagger

Created/Edited: Feb 16, 2008 / Feb 16, 2008

Object ID: 381191

Hits: 2554 

Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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This is a direct route up the SW Face of Eagle Mountain. It provides a great alternative to the main route, with some more spicy scrambling.

Getting There

See the main Eagle Mountain page for this info.

Route Description

Eagle Mountain  Direct  dryfalls
Ascending the dryfalls.
From the parking area, head across the Amargosa River, and up the bajada to the base of the 3 distinct chutes piercing up the SW Face. This is the same approach as for the main route. (see topo image on header of this page)

climbing the  direct  dryfall
Pulling through the 5th Class section.
Instead of using the ramp on the left of the 3rd chute, find your way to the base of the middle chute. It is the deepest of the chutes, usually in the shade somewhat, with a polished dryfall in the middle of it. There are a few large boulders to be surmounted, but it's Class 2 travel to the base of the chute.

Some fun scrambling up the chute will take you to the main event- the dryfall. It's easy Class 5 (hardmen will try to tell you it's Class 4) going, but fairly easy, with very secure holds on very solid rock. The exposure gets to be interesting towards the top, but it never felt sketchy to me.

 Direct  route shot
Ascending the wide part.
Above the dryfall, the chute widens considerably. Bailing onto the standard route is easy here, by traversing left over a rib and onto the main route ramp.

downclimbing Eagle Mountain s summit ridge
Downclimbing a tower on the way to the summit.
In the wider part of the chute, pick your way up. The climbing can probably be kept to Class 4 in this area, but going directly up will be Class 5 (easy). Again the rock is great (though more solid and smooth in the direct watercourse).

After several hundred more vertical feet, you will meet the standard route on the ramp that ascends after the standard route crosses the white band. Ascend this ramp for a little ways, but continue up to the base of the cliffs. The standard route will continue traversing right toward the saddle on the main ridge. To continue the "Direct" route, go up another set of dryfalls, making a gradual ascending traverse along ribs to the saddle itself. This will add some more Class 4 scrambling to the mix, and is quite enjoyable.

From the saddle, ascend the ridge directly to the South, all the way to the summit. You will go up and down gendarmes and larger towers, but the scrambling never gets worse than exposed Class 3. Eventually, you will come to the summit. Enjoy!


I would recommend descending the Standard SW Face route, as this route would be pretty hair-raising to descend, particularly the dryfall.

External Links

Photo album from a winter '08 ascent of the Direct Route.


Eagle Mountain "Direct" dryfallsclimbing the "direct" dryfallAlong Eagle Mountain\'s summit ridge"Direct" route shotEagle Mountain route topodownclimbing Eagle Mountain\'s summit ridgeHeading on up