OverviewThis is a direct route up the West Face of Eagle Mountain. It provides a great alternative to the main route, with some more spicy scrambling.
Getting ThereSee the main Eagle Mountain page for this info.
Some fun scrambling up the chute will take you to the main event- the dryfall. The main dryfall is probably 150' of climbing. It's Class 4, honest, though some might call it easy Class 5, but it's fairly easy, with very secure and ample holds on very solid rock. The exposure (obviously) increases as one nears the top. The crux of the entire route is the last move to pull to the top of the dryfall. Staying to the left provides easier access, but The Move requires a short dynamic pull- commitment. You can see the move in the picture to the right. It's easier than it looks but it will get hearts pounding and some parties will want a rope or piece of webbing lowered from the top as a handhold.
After several hundred more vertical feet, you will meet the standard route on the ramp that ascends after the standard route crosses the white band. Ascend this ramp for a little ways, but continue up to the base of the cliffs. The standard route will continue traversing right toward the saddle on the main ridge. To continue the "Direct" route, go up another set of dryfalls, making a gradual ascending traverse along ribs to the saddle itself. This will add some more Class 4 scrambling to the mix, and is quite enjoyable.
From the saddle, there are two options. One is to take the use trail which traverses up and to the right, and then take the spur ridge to get on top of the North Ridge. Another option is to ascend the ridge directly to the South, all the way to the summit. The ridge straight from the spur is a bit of a pain in the butt- broken rock and so forth. The final 1/5th of a mile of immaculate knife-edge scrambling on the North Ridge makes the whole climb worth it. You will go up and down gendarmes and larger towers, but the scrambling never gets worse than exposed Class 3. Eventually, you will come to the summit. Enjoy!