Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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62.45887°N / 7.82677°E |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Summer |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.9 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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24 |
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Overview
One of the best traditional long routes in ScandinaviaGetting There
The route is on the south pillar of the mountain Mongejura on the north side of the Romsdalen walley app. 1 hour west from the city of Dombås.In the small village of Marstein, park west of the graveyard!!
Take the path from the parkinglot up to the start of the the climb, app. 1 hour.
Route Description
Sydpillaren or South Pillar is a great and beautiful route with 24 pitches of traditional climbing. It has three pitches of Norwegian grade 6(5.9+).The rest is easier climbing on ledges, fourth classing and pitches up to Norwegian 6-(5.8).There is not a single bolt on the route, but all the belays are good.
The rock is firm exept for the 22:e pitch, which is loose with blocks on top of eachother.
Essential Gear
Normal tradrack with cams up to 4"
hucksquaw - Aug 7, 2015 6:31 am - Hasn't voted
Wrong grade conversions!The grade conversions on this page are totaly wrong. Grade 6 norwegian is not 5.9+ and grade 6- norwegian is definitely not 5.8. Grade 6 is closer 5.10 climbing and 6- is closer to 5.10- (or maybe old school 5.9+). If 5.9 climbers go up on this route thinking it will be a cruiser, they are in for a surprise.
surfarn73 - Oct 31, 2015 7:44 pm - Hasn't voted
Right gradesTotallly wrong?? I say that its perfect for 5.9 climbers who is used to long routes. I climb 5.9 in the US at my best. I have climbed many Classic 5.9 routes in Yosemite and I say that its app. the same difficulty as norweigen grade 6. But its a long route and doing a grade 6 on ropelength 16 can be hard. I have climbed the route four times. Best regards surfarn 73
Borrows - Feb 1, 2019 8:36 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Right gradesTotaly correct Surfarn73.
giuseppe_miotti - Sep 4, 2021 7:35 am - Hasn't voted
Some memoriesI climbed the route in 2007. I found it hard because it's quite athletic. I confirm the grade. We only found two pegs in 24 pitches. We took 12 hours (three climbers team). I wish to point that after the last difficult pitch there are some other easy pitches. It was dark and maybe we mistook the right route but we climbed some other 4/5 pitches grade III/IV. Fantastic route!!!!