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Tale Of Two Shitties
Route

Tale Of Two Shitties

 
Tale Of Two Shitties

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.36690°N / 121.1466°W

Object Title: Tale Of Two Shitties

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.10a

Number of Pitches: 3

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: rpc

Created/Edited: Sep 13, 2005 / Apr 17, 2009

Object ID: 166744

Hits: 2746 

Page Score: 77.48%  - 8 Votes 

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Approach

 
Looking down from beginning...
P2
 
Tale Of Two Shitties
P2
 
Leading pitch two of Tale Of...
P2

Follow the directions on the main page to reach the base of Mesa Verde Wall. The route starts 20 feet right of a huge block leaning against the base of the wall (route starts immediately right of the start of Sundown) near the "prow" separating the northwest and southwest faces of The Wall.

Route Description

 
Shirley climbing through...
P1
 
Tale Of Two Shitties
Route
 
Tale Of Two Shitties
P2
 
Shirley just above the crux...
P2

Tale Of Two Shitties climbs to the same ledge system (at 3/4ths height) as Trezlar (right side of the ledges whereas Trezlar reaches the left side) in three fun pitches.

Pitch 1: 5.7, 70 feet. Climb up a shallow, left facing dihedral. Overcome a few bulges above (watch for some loose rock here) and belay at the base of a prominent, right-facing dihedral in nice clean rock (gear belay, semi-hanging).

Pitch 2: 5.10a, 60 feet. Climb up the clean dihedral. Going starts out easy (5.8-ish hands) and gets progressively harder higher up as the crack turns to fingers. Exit the dihedral near its top and traverse right and up through a bulge using the nice finger/hand crack (5.10a). Belay on a nice ledge with bolts.

Pitch 3: 5.9, 50 feet. Move left and climb a shallow, right-facing dihedral past two bolts (balancy face moves). There is some runout above the second bolt but the going eases quickly. Belay on the huge ledge from a bolted anchor.

Descent: See photo below. Do a single rope rap from bolted anchors back to top of pitch 2. Do a double rope rap directly to the ground. Alternatively, you could probably scramble left along the ledge system to reach top of Trezlar (class 4?) and follow descent directions given for that route.

Essential Gear

 
Chimney De Chelly
Rap Line
 
Tale Of Two Shitties
P3

Set of nuts. Cams from green Alien to #3 Camalot (doubles in red Alien to #2 Camalot useful). Possibly extra finger to tight hands pieces.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Tale Of Two ShittiesShirley climbing through...Tale Of Two ShittiesLooking down from beginning...Tale Of Two ShittiesLeading pitch two of Tale Of...Tale Of Two Shitties
Tale Of Two ShittiesShirley just above the crux...