Tete de Sanglier
Tete de Sanglier – Wild Boar Head – is an imposing rocky castle situated inside the Alpes de Haute Provence (Ubaye province) and overlooking the road joining St. Paul sur l’Ubaye and the small village of Maljasset (D25).
This peak has two main sides where different climbing routes run: East face - overlooking D 25 nearby the small village of La Barge – has both equipped and trad routes, while the wild South Face – having a longer approach – only has trad routes.
Mountain’s interest is not only climbing. Normal route to the summit is a simply hike, but truly giving an interesting experience inside a secluded milieu.
Getting ThereFrom Barcelonnette follow the road D902 rising towards NE along Ubaye Valley, reaching St. Paul sur l’Ubaye; cross the village following the road D25 to Maljasset.
TETE DE SANGLIER NORMAL ROUTE
It’ s possible to get to the top of Tete de Sanglier following its Normal Route, which rises along the first part of the Houerts Valley: a simply but satisfactory hike, getting to the summit and giving some magnificent views.
The starting point of this trail is situated along D25 about 2 kilometers before La Barge village (Parking des Houerts). From the little parking get back a bit along the road, reaching the starting point of Houerts Valley path (marks). The well marked path rises with several hairpins overcoming the beginning slopes and entering the Houerts Valley. When the track is getting to a huge steep and red wall rising on your left-hand side – it’s the fine North-East face of Sommet Rouge (Red Summit) – you must leave the main path track, turning to right and following a track rising steeply along stones and grassy slopes. A final easy ridge towards left is leading to the summit.
Routes overview (French Scale)
EAST FACE - Approach from road D25
From left to right:
*** Les Jardins d’Amandine TD, 6a max, 5c obbl. 350 mt.
*** Les Diedres D+, 5, 350 mt.
*** Au delà du Délire (Beyond the delirium D+, 5, 160 mt.
*** A l’ombre du Mélèze en fleur (Below the larchs in bloom) TD+, 6b max, 6a obbl., 160 mt.
*** Fleurs de Rocaille (Flowers of the Stones) TD-, 6a max, 5+ obbl. , 150 mt.
SOUTH FACE – Approach from Houerts Valley
From left to right:
*** Les Emabarres D, 5a obbl., 350 mt
*** A la Recherce du Thon Perdu TD-, 5+ obbl., 350 mt.
*** Les Retrouvailles D+, 5+ obbl., 350 mt.
*** L’Innomeé TD, 5 obbl., 350 mt.
*** Isabellarium TD, 5+ obbl., 350 mt.
Where to stayThere is an equipped camping open in summer in Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye.
In Maljasset' village you can stay in Maljasset Hut (French Alpine Club - CAF, mt. 1905), 60 beds, always open, phone 04 92 84 34 04 or in Gite d’etape “La Cure”.
In Pont d’Estreche Maison d’hotes “La Posada”.
When to climb and hike
Best season goes from June to October.
External LinksREFUGE CAF MALJASSET
Guidebooks and maps
“Alpes du Sud, Provence" by Hervé Galley - Editions Olizane - Geneve (Switzerland)
Map IGN TOP 25 3538 ET, Aiguilles de Chambeyron