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The Big Deal

 
The Big Deal

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: The Big Deal

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 3

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: old5ten

Created/Edited: Aug 22, 2014 / Aug 24, 2014

Object ID: 910169

Hits: 124 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Overview

The Big Deal is probably one of the best routes at POSM slab, the equivalent of Nutcracker in the Valley, especially when combined with The High Life (5.8) as an approach pitch.  Even though there are plenty features, such as a couple of easy roofs, cracks, and lieback sections, The Big Deal feels very much like a slab climb. 

Getting There

From the toe of PSOM slab (Unknown A) follow the climbers trail along the base of the slab up the hill until you are almost at (about 60' before) the end of the talus/scree field (and have to start scrambling).  Look for a arching, right facing corner that leads over a couple of small lips (The High Life, 5.8).  There are a number of bushes to its left.  Alternately, you can go to the end of the talus/scree and start the climb at a slick seam/crack (P1 of PBR Street Gang).  There are also a couple of bolted slab routes (difficulty unknown) between The High Life and PBR Street Gang.  All of these approach pitches end on a huge ledge.  The far left anchor on this ledge is the start of The Big Deal.

Route Description


P1 - Starting at the left ledge anchor follow a long lieback corner/thin crack (with a few short fat sections).  When the crack diminishes traverse up and left to a seam.  Initially, this looks improbable and hard to protect, but is relatively low key with small cams.  Climb the seam to a good stance and bolted anchor.
P2 - From the anchor climb up a shallow groove past a bolt, then traverse up and right across a small left facing corner/lip.  Climb up the face to another bolt, pass the intermediate anchor (or use it, but why?), then head up past another bolt to some hollow flakes.  Lieback the corner, pass the first roof at the dead bush, then go over the second roof into a thin hand crack.  Climb to where the crack angles to the left and look for the anchor on the left side.
P3 - Go up the low angle (easy) fist/OW crack/flake (rope eater) to the top, continue up along a shallow left facing corner, then go up the face past 4 bolts (5.9 friction) to another left facing corner and the anchor.  

Essential Gear

The harder non-slab crux sections on this climb tend to take smaller cams.  1 set of nuts, double cams to 1", one ea. 2-3", 4" optional (if you want to protect one of the pods on P1).  2x60m ropes for rappel.  

Images

The Big Deal 5.9 (3p)