Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.39320°N / 118.66833°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Fall |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.9 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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3 |
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Overview
The Big Deal is probably one of the best routes at POSM slab, the equivalent of Nutcracker in the Valley, especially when combined with The High Life (5.8) as an approach pitch. Even though there are plenty features, such as a couple of easy roofs, cracks, and lieback sections, The Big Deal feels very much like a slab climb.
Getting There
From the toe of PSOM slab (Unknown A) follow the climbers trail along the base of the slab up the hill until you are almost at (about 60' before) the end of the talus/scree field (and have to start scrambling). Look for a arching, right facing corner that leads over a couple of small lips (The High Life, 5.8). There are a number of bushes to its left. Alternately, you can go to the end of the talus/scree and start the climb at a slick seam/crack (P1 of PBR Street Gang). There are also a couple of bolted slab routes (difficulty unknown) between The High Life and PBR Street Gang. All of these approach pitches end on a huge ledge. The far left anchor on this ledge is the start of The Big Deal.Route Description
P2 - From the anchor climb up a shallow groove past a bolt, then traverse up and right across a small left facing corner/lip. Climb up the face to another bolt, pass the intermediate anchor (or use it, but why?), then head up past another bolt to some hollow flakes. Lieback the corner, pass the first roof at the dead bush, then go over the second roof into a thin hand crack. Climb to where the crack angles to the left and look for the anchor on the left side.
P3 - Go up the low angle (easy) fist/OW crack/flake (rope eater) to the top, continue up along a shallow left facing corner, then go up the face past 4 bolts (5.9 friction) to another left facing corner and the anchor.