The Big Toe

The Big Toe from the south showing the approximate route that I used to the notch in the SW Ridge. This is essentially the same route described in the 2006 Journal of the Glacier Mountaineering Society. The topo there indicates a more direct start. From the notch you follow the ridge crest to the summit. The climbing is Class 3 and 4 (some pretty stiff 4). GMS IV(4)SS The climbing on about the first third of the darker rock above the white band at the bottom is very steep and loose with a lot of scree on ledges. I rappelled this section. The rock from the notch up is excellent by GNP standards. The ridge becomes very narrow and exposed. Photo 23 Jun 2014 by Fred Spicker