17th April 1908
T.E.Goodeve, W.N.Ling and H.Raeburn
From Spittal of Glenmuick bear right immediately after the visitor centre and head along the land rover track to the small out-house of the Alt-na-giubhsaich. Continue in the same direction through the pretty pine forest for a short distance until you re-emerge onto another land rover track. Follow this for about 3km to a fork in the track. Head left along a smaller path which drops down slightly before a steady 2km climb brings you to the saddle between Meikle Pap and Lochnagar. From here views of the cliffs are spectacular and this makes a pleasant spot for a break. From the saddle head down into the coire picking your way through the boulders to a first aid box (only open in an emergency) and avalanche probes. This is the usual "gearing up" place. From here the Black Spout Buttress borders the right hand side of the obvious large gully (The Black Spout )(286 degrees from 1st aid box)
The climb can be broken down into two sections. The lower section is quite heavily vegetated and can be avoided by a traverse in from The Black Spout opposite its fork.
If doing the route in its entirety traverse right across steep grass for about 10m to the base of an obvious chimney.Climb this then about 60m of scrambling leads to a level arete (end of the lower section). Continue along the arete and follow a ridge of piled blocks to an awkward chimney. Above this the difficulty eases until a short wall is reached. Start this in the centre but trend right to finish by a tricky corner. Another steep wall is now encountered. Climb it direct on good holds for about 10m. Above this follow a ledge on the left before regaining the crest and following the line of least resistance to the plateau.
Normal kit including:
>Map (OS Landranger44 or Explorer388)
Climbing gear including:
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