Length of climb
From Spittal of Glenmuick bear right immediately after the visitor centre and head along the land rover track to the small out-house of the Alt-na-giubhsaich. Continue in the same direction through the pretty pine forest for a short distance until you re-emerge onto another land rover track. Follow this for about 3km to a fork in the track. Head left along a smaller path which drops down slightly before a steady 2km climb brings you to the saddle between Meikle Pap and Lochnagar. From here views of the cliffs are spectacular and this makes a pleasant spot for a break. From the saddle head down into the coire picking your way through the boulders to a first aid box (only open in an emergency) and avalanche probes. This is the usual "gearing up" place. From here the Black Spout is the lagest gully on the cliff slanting up rightwards. (286 degrees from 1st aid box)
Route is obvious up easy angled snow which gradually steepens towards the top. The cornice can be large and is usually passable on the right.
Normal winter kit including:
>Map (OS Landranger 44 or Explorer 388)
>Survival / bivi bag
Essential climbing gear:
>Ice axe ( 1 is adequate but use 2 if you have them)
>Helmet (route is quite popular)
>Basic rock rack
>Snow stake / deadman's belay
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