Park at the Intersection Rock/Hidden Valley campground day parking area. Take the trail along the west face of the 2 big formations of rock that were on your left as you entered. The first one is "The Old Woman" with the classic "Double Cross" (5.7+) the second is "The Blob". Boulder hop up to the face and traverse to the dike walkway. This is a fun aproach and is much easier than the scramble at the far north end. Follow the walkway around the corner to the flat area. Rack up hear.
Pretty straight forward. It's a short climb but great jamming. Start up flake thing at the bottom to the crack. Pass the small roof and jam your way till you meet another small bulge where the crack widens a little, pass this and your pretty much at the top. Build an anchor off of the large chalkstone or the crack.
DESCENT: This winter (2005)there were slings to rap off of from the chalkstone but they may not be there now! Bring something or descend down the slab to your right to the system of cracks and chicken heads. A word of warning this is an exposed descent. Good holds but a really bad landing if a fall were to happen. Rope up if you need to. Either go through the cave on left or keep following the crack. Both end in the same spot. I usually use the cave way. Big chicken heads towards the bottom. Over or under the chalk stone at the bottom and through the chimney back to your packs.
Medium to wide cams. Double up on the 2 & 3
1 or 2 single length runners
Cordelette or slings for anchor/rap station
rap rings (opt)
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