The Breach Wall, Direct Route...

The Breach Wall, Direct Route (East African Grade VI / WI 5 / AD) saw its first ascent by Reinhold Messner and Konrad Renzler on January 31, 1978 ... in 12 hours. From the base of the Breach Wall (4,600 m) climb the icefall that leads up to the Balletto Ice Field (this cascading ice fall is hidden from view in the photo above by the foreground ridge). Then climb the ice field towards the climbers left to the 90 meter Breach Wall Icicle (5,450 m). Once you climb the icicle, follow the Diamond Glacier up north to Uhuru Peak. There can be substantial rockfall present on the lower part of this route. The Heim Glacier (East African Grade III / WI 2 / ED) is a classic and is held in similar regard to Aconcagua's Polish Glacier. As seen on January 14, 2002.