July 17th, 2011, Day 1Ryan, Anna and I hit the trail at 3:15 on July 17th, 2011. We reached the climbers camp ~ 6 miles in by 8 pm. It was very wet and rainy. The trail had some soggy/muddy sections above Lena Lake, but overall the trail is quite nice. When crossing the creek to get to the camp spots we jumped across on a slippery rock, however i'd suggest looking for a shallow section in the stream to walk across (as we did on our way home).
July 18th, 2011. Day 2We set the alarm for 5 am so we could have an early morning and a nice sunrise up on the slopes. However, sleeping like crap that night pushed it back to a 6 am wake up and 6:35 start. From our camp we followed tags in trees and shrubs and bushwacked a bit up along the creek. Don't do this, there is an actual trail which we discovered on our way back down.
We crossed some avalanche debris and went through some trees, then another debris field and some more trees, onto the snow slope that leads up just west of the obvious rib that comes down from the south face.
After ascending for a while we moved right onto the rib across some rock. We ascended a few hundred feet and moved left onto the slope above the hourglass.
We climbed up to the top by 11:30 but there was not much in the way of sights as the clouds had moved in.
We had an awesome glissade down and a nice hike out, we made it to the car by 6 pm. An Awesome adventure!