As of late July 2010, the trail was pretty obvious heading upwards along the west fork of the creek from the usual basecamp. What wasn't obvious was the junction about 0.6mi in where one should bear right. The trail then climbs up through an avalanche meadow, then enters a large burned out area. Continue following north and west until it enters a gully w/ stream which leads up to the south col. The route likely changes here frequently depending on snow conditions and how much water is coming down. The route crisscrossed the creek several times before emerging from the trees at the base of the southern couloir.
Sustained 30-degree snow slopes above The Hourglass. Helmet, crampons and ice axe all essential. Bringing a rope and pickets may be a good idea if you have some less experienced folks on the team.