21 December 1913 : Miss Inglis Clark, Mrs Hunter and H.Alexander
The first winter route of the new century to be climbed on the cliff.
Length of Climb
60m (not including the approach via the Black Spout)
From Spittal of Glenmuick bear right immediately after the visitor centre and head along the land rover track to the small out-house of the Alt-na-giubhsaich. Continue in the same direction through the pretty pine forest for a short distance until you re-emerge onto another land rover track. Follow this for about 3km to a fork in the track. Head left along a smaller path which drops down slightly before a steady 2km climb brings you to the saddle between Meikle Pap and Lochnagar. From here views of the cliffs are spectacular and this makes a pleasant spot for a break. From the saddle head down into the coire picking your way through the boulders to a first aid box (only open in an emergency) and avalanche probes. This is the usual "gearing up" place. From here the Black Spout is the lagest gully on the cliff slanting up rightwards. (286 degrees from 1st aid box)
Climb the Left Hand Branch of the Black Spout for about two pitches. The Crumbling Cranny is the short but steep gully which cuts through the right hand wall of the Left Hand Branch. It is climbed in about 1 and a half rope lenghts. The cornice is usually massive and either has to be tunneled or turned by a harder variation on the right.
Normal winter kit including:
>Map (OS Landranger 44 or Explorer 388)
>Survival / bivi bag
Essential climbing gear:
>Ice axe ( 1 is adequate but use 2 if you have them)
>Helmet (route is quite popular)
>Basic rock rack
>Snow stake / deadman's belay
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