The Daddy

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 35.88060°N / 81.886°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climb
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.6
Sign the Climber's Log

Approach

Begin from the Table Rock parking area and travel south on the main trail. This trail will follow the east ridge of the Linville Gorge past the Chimneys (a popular topropping area). Just past here you will see the first of two secondary trails leading down and right. This first trail leads to the North Carolina Wall. Pass this trail! You will reach the second trail approximately a mile from the Chimneys. It is marked by a small pine tree with a white paint splash on the left side of the trail. Turn right here!
If this is your first visit to the Amphitheater you will want to go ahead and walk out to the vista point, the view is excellent. Directly across will be "The Mummy 5.5/5.6". It was the "original line" and follows a prominant crack system to the top. To the right is "The Daddy".
To approach these climbs move back up the same trail, and either turn right, down and often wet, muddy steep trail, or keep walking back to another small trail leading up and right, over a large rock, then eventually around the top ridge of the Amphitheater. This small trail will fizzle into somewhat of a maize that all eventually end at the top of the Daddy Buttress. At this point leave your pack, grab your rack and put on your rock shoes. Rapell or down climb the short steep gully that you just passed. It will lead to the bottom. Hug the left hand wall and you will first see the start of the Mummy at an often wet and sloping rock. The Daddy starts further down the hill at the small buttress with a very large pine tree at the bottom.

Route Description

P1 Starts at the base of a small buttress with a large pine tree. Follow this simple pitch to the second ledge and belay from here. P2 is a large flake that can be laid back or simply bypassed by climbing the face to the left. I have seen numerous gear lost here. Be carefull placing gear in this crack as it has a tendency to walk. P2 can end at the pine tree, or continue to the large ledge above, depending. The next pitch involves face climbing to a fabulous belay under the dihedral. Watch for rope drag. Finally, climb the dihedral and up and over the final slightly overhung move at the top.

Essential Gear

The Daddy is a VERY classic climb! It requires a basic rack of friends, nuts and a pink tri cam is nice in spots. It is so well protected that I like to use every natural feature possible. P4 has a wonderful natural horn that can be slinged just when you want it most.

Miscellaneous Info

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