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Matthew HollimanRoute Comment

Matthew Holliman

Hasn't voted

As an alternative to retracing one's steps (or rappeling!) down the headwall, it's possible to instead continue following the east ridge down to where it meets the easy slopes below the cliffs. This is a short but highly enjoyable knife edge--exposed, excellent rock, and although regrettably brief, it's some of the best third class climbing I've found on a desert peak to date. Highly recommended. (Incidentally, although more exposed than the headwall, it may actually be easier to descend this way--you're traversing a mostly level ridge with only a short, easy downclimb at the end to get back to the scree slopes, rather than reversing the steep climb of the headwall.)



This ridge could obviously also be used on an ascent, but it's slightly less direct than the usual DPS weakness up to the summit, and I overlooked it. If you miss it likewise on the way up, be sure not to on the way down--you'd really be missing out.
Posted Nov 29, 2005 2:32 am

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