| The Face of the Giant Maid, V+ A3e/ V, IV, 150m Route |
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| The Face of the Giant Maid, V+ A3e/ V, IV, 150m   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.42752°N / 13.76184°E Route Type: Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall Time Required: Half a day Difficulty: V+ A3e/ V, IV, 150m Number of Pitches: 4
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| Page By: borutbk Created/Edited: Oct 26, 2008 / Jul 3, 2011 Object ID: 457374 Hits: 1767 Loading... Page Score: 87.98% - 12 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
What clearly appears as a human face in the lower W part of the Prisank (Prisojnik) NW face is of course wrapped in fairy tales and legends. The first ascent of the beauty on Aug 12. 1984 was no less legendary.
The Face of the Giant Maid (Obraz Ajdovske deklice) is an Aid Climbing classic. Janez Jeglič (1961-1997), Silvo Karo and Franc Knez opened the route (quote) in 9 hours; the grade is V+ A3e/V, IV, 150m.Getting ThereThe approach starts at the Erjavčeva koča (hut). For overnight accomodations, reserve by tel.: (00386)(0)51 399226
Offering a good view of the route, the Erjavčeva koca (hut) is at the altitude of 1500m, to the N of the Vršič pass, along the Bovec to Kranjska Gora road (parking lot, bus in the summer).
The approach along the Jeseniška (Kopiščarjeva) pot (path) is short (ca.30min).
Route DescriptionStart below the Face and go to the ledge, left (II).
We may choose our own belay strategy, following the evident cracks and the original set of expansion bolts.
Follow the crack to the right up to the 1st roof (V, A3);
then follow the crack to the 2nd roof (the chin): V+, A3.
We then avoid the next roof (the eye) on its left (slab): A1,
traverse right, avoiding the last overhang (the forehead) from the right.
We now take advantage of the large slab which leads to a short chimney (V-), after which it is still a scramble before reaching the path.
> Please enlarge the primary image and discover the grades added along the line.
Essential GearDouble 60m
More slings than usually (or ladders)
3 cams (medium to small)
4 ordinary pitons (f.i.: jeseničani)
2 profile (V or U) pitons
External LinksVršič climbing guide (Ljubljana,1997) Images
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