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The famous 3.500m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Cogne Valley)
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The famous 3.500m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Cogne Valley)

 
The famous 3.500m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no <b>(Cogne Valley)</b>

Page Type: List

Location: Aosta Valley, Italy, Europe

Object Title: The famous 3.500m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Cogne Valley)

 

Page By: Antonio Giani

Created/Edited: May 14, 2013 / Jan 14, 2015

Object ID: 849502

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Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

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Overview

- The famous 3.500m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Cogne Valley) -

The Aosta Valley (Italy) is one of the most famous and beautiful mountainous countries in the world. It holds many impressive mountains like Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) and Gran Paradiso. But there are also many 3.500 meters peaks which are well known all over the world: For example the impressive Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and almost as impressive; Herbetet, Aiguille de Trélatête, Grivola, Mont Vélan, Becca di Luseney and many others.

La Valle d'Aosta (Italia), è una delle più famose e belle regioni di montagna del mondo. Contiene molte montagne imponenti come il Monte Bianco, il Monte Rosa, il Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) e il Gran Paradiso. Esistono però anche moltissime vette di oltre 3.500 metri molto conosciute dagli alpinisti come l'imponente Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, l'Herbetet, l'Aiguille de Trélatête, la Grivola, il Mont Vélan, la Becca di Luseney e molte altre.

Champorcher and Cogne Valley


 
Punte Patrì
Punte Patrì 3.581/3.561m






PUNTE PATRI' 3.581m-3.561m

    First ascent Punta Meridionale (3.581m S-W Slope) from Valnontey: A., C., A. e G. Sella, J. J. Maquignaz and J. B. Bich, (Aug 07th, 1881).
    First ascent Punta Settentrionale (3.561m N Arête) from Valnontey: G. P. Baker, J. Yeld, B. and E. Pession, (Aug 16th 1910).
    Difficulty: F+/PD-.
    Difference in height: About 1.900m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso del Money (2.872m), 8 places.
    Ascent time: 8-9 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Torre di Sant Orso
Torre di Sant'Orso 3.618m





TORRE DI SANT'ORSO 3.618m
    First ascent normal route (W Wall) from Valnontey: E. T. Compton, G. Yeld, F. Pession, A. Pellissier and L. Guichardaz, (Aug 05th, 1892).
    Difficulty: PD.
    Difference in height: About 2.000m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso del Money (2.872m), 8 places.
    Ascent time: 7,00-8,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Torre di Sant Andrea
Torre di Sant'Andrea 3.651m






TORRE DI SANT'ANDREA 3.651m
    First ascent Punta Meridionale (3.644m) from Valnontey: G. Blanchetti and friend, (Aug 1881).
    First ascent Punta Settentrionale (3.651m) from Valnontey: G. Stallard, L. Ormer, J. Ogi-Müller and A. Müller, (Aug 10th, 1891).
    Difficulty: PD/AD-.
    Difference in height: About 1.985m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso del Money (2.872m), 8 places.
    Ascent time: 7,00-8,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Torre del Gran San Pietro
Torre del Gran San Pietro 3.692m






TORRE DEL GRAN SAN PIETRO 3.692m
    First ascent normal route (W Slope and N Arête) from Valnontey: E. Carr and A. F. Mummery, (Aug 12th, 1891).
    Difficulty: AD.
    Difference in height: About 2.050m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso del Money (2.872m), 8 places.
    Ascent time: 8,30-9,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, axe, crampons, helmet, a few rock and ice pegs (even if not used).



 
Roccia Viva
Roccia Viva 3.650m






ROCCIA VIVA 3.650m
    First ascent normal route from (E-SE W-SW Arête): W. A. B. Coolidge, F. Gardiner, C. and R. Almer, (Aug 17th, 1887).
    Difficulty: EEA/F+/PD-.
    Difference in height: About 1.862m (from Teleccio lake).
    Refuge: Pontese (2.200m). Places when open: 70. Winter hut: 12 places. Bivacco fisso Gino Carpano (2.865m), 5-7 places always open.
    Ascent time: 5,00-6,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Becca di Gay
Becca di Gay 3.621m






BECCA DI GAY 3.621m
    First ascent normal route: P. Gastaldi, V. Giordana, T. Cristen and G. Perotti, (Aug 20th, 1895).
    Difficulty: EEA/F+.
    Difference in height: About 1.750m (from Teleccio lake).
    Refuge: Pontese (2.200m). Places when open: 70. Winter hut: 12 places. Bivacco fisso Gino Carpano (2.865m), 5-7 places always open.
    Ascent time: 5,00-5,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Testa della Tribolazione
Testa della Tribolazione 3.642m






TESTA DELLA TRIBOLAZIONE 3.642m
    First ascent normal route (W-SW Arête) from Valnontey: A. Holmes and W. A. Brigg, (Jul 18th, 1899).
    Difficulty: PD.
    Difference in height: About 1.950m.
    Refuge: Bivacchi fissi Carlo Pol (3.183m), 6 places, and M. Gérard - E. Grappein (3.200m), 9 places, located on the spur that divides the northern and southern branches of the Tribolazione Glacier.
    Ascent time: 8,00-9,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Punta di Ceresole
Punta di Ceresole 3.777m






PUNTA DI CERESOLE 3.777m
    First ascent normal route (E Ridge and N Side) from Valnontey: W. A. B. Coolidge, Christian J. Almer and R. Almer, (Aug 13th, 1888).
    Difficulty: The route is rated from PD (a little difficult) to AD (rather difficult), depending on the mountain conditions.
    Difference in height: About 2.111m.
    Refuge: Bivacchi fissi Carlo Pol (3.183m), 6 places, and M. Gérard - E. Grappein (3.200m), 9 places, located on the spur that divides the northern and southern branches of the Tribolazione Glacier.
    Ascent time: 8,00-9,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Cresta Gastaldi
Cresta Gastaldi 3.894m






CRESTA GASTALDI 3.894m
    First ascent normal route (W Ridge) from Valnontey: W A. B. Coolidge, G. Yeld, Christian Junior and R. Almer, (Aug 12th, 1888).
    Difficulty: The route is rated from PD (a little difficult) to AD (rather difficult), depending on the mountain conditions.
    Difference in height: About 2.228m.
    Refuge: Bivacchi fissi Carlo Pol (3.183m), 6 places, and M. Gérard - E. Grappein (3.200m), 9 places, located on the spur that divides the northern and southern branches of the Tribolazione Glacier.
    Ascent time: 9,00-9,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Piccolo Paradiso
Piccolo Paradiso 3926m






PICCOLO PARADISO 3.926m
    First ascent normal route (NE Wall) from Valnontey: G. Yeld, A. Payot and L. Guichardaz, (Aug 11th, 1879).
    Difficulty: The route can be classified as PD+ or AD- depending on mountain conditions, to be done only by experienced and trained climbers.
    Difference in height: About 2.260m.
    Refuge: Fixed Bivouac Lucio and Lionello Leonessa (2.910m), 12 places, near Herbetet's east ridge. Difficulty: E (Hikers). Reachable from Valnontey (see the following itinerary).
    Ascent time: 9,00-9,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment:High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, crampons, helmet and torch.



 
Becca di Montandayné
Becca di Montandayné 3.838m






BECCA DI MONTANDAYNÉ 3.838m
    First ascent normal route (NE Wall) from Valnontey: W. A. B. Coolidge, G. Yeld, C. Almer, S. Henry and G. Jeantet, (Aug 16th, 1883).
    Difficulty: PD.
    Difference in height: About 2.180m.
    Refuge: Fixed Bivouac Lucio and Lionello Leonessa (2.910m), 12 places, near Herbetet's east ridge.
    Ascent time: 8,30-9,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Herbetet
Herbetet 3.778m







HERBETET 3.778m

    First ascent normal route (N-NE Edge) from Valnontey: W A. B. Coolidge, Christian Junior and R. Almer, (Aug 10th, 1888).
    Difficulty: PD+.
    Difference in height: About 2.110m.
    Refuge: Fixed Bivouac Lucio and Lionello Leonessa (2.910m), 12 places, near Herbetet's east ridge.
    Ascent time: 8,00-9,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, helmet, crampons, and torch.



 
Gran Serra or Gran Sertz
Gran Serra or Gran Serz 3.552m






GRAN SERRA or GRAN SERZ 3.552m
    First on the summit (from S-W Arête) from Valnontey: G. Yeld, A. Payot and L. Guichardaz, (Aug 09th, 1879).
    Difficulty: F+.
    Difference in height: About 1.890m.
    Refuge: Vittorio Sella (2.588m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places.
    Ascent time: 5,30-6,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, crampons.



 
Punta Rossa della Grivola
Punta Rossa della Grivola 3.630m






PUNTA ROSSA DELLA GRIVOLA 3.630m
    First on the summit (from S-W Arête) from Valnontey: H. F. Montgomery, S. Taylor and J. Tannler, (1864).
    Difficulty: F.
    Difference in height: About 1.950m.
    Refuge: Vittorio Sella (2.588m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places. Bivacco fisso Luciano Gratton (3.198m), 9 places.
    Ascent time: 6,00-6,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, crampons.



 
Punta Nera della Grivola
Punta Nera della Grivola 3.683m



PUNTA NERA DELLA GRIVOLA 3.683m
    First on the summit (from S-W Arête) from Valnontey: W. A. B. Coolidge, G Yeld, Christian J. and R. Almer, (Aug 08th, 1888).
    Difficulty: F.
    Difference in height: About 2.000m.
    Refuge: Vittorio Sella (2.588m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places.
    Ascent time: 6,30-7,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, crampons.



 
Punta Bianca della Grivola
Punta Bianca della Grivola 3.793m






PUNTA BIANCA DELLA GRIVOLA 3.793m
    First on the summit (from S-W Arête) from Valnontey: P. B. Chamonin and A. J. Jantet, (Sep 21th, 1858).
    Difficulty: F+.
    Difference in height: About 2.150m.
    Refuge: Vittorio Sella (2.588m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places.
    Ascent time: 7,30-8,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, crampons.



 
La Grivola
La Grivola 3.969m



GRIVOLA 3.969m
    First ascent (SE Wall) from Valnontey: P. B. Chamonin and A. J. Jeantet, (Sep 09th, 1861).
    Difficulty: PD+AD-.
    Difference in height: About 2.300m.
    Refuge: Vittorio Sella (2.588). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places. Bivacco fisso Mario Balzola (3.477m), 4 places.
    Ascent time: 9,00-10,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


Refuges Telephone Numbers

Books and Maps

BOOKS:
  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Gran Paradiso Parco Nazionale" E. Andreis, R. Chabod, M. C. Santis, Club Alpino Italiano/Touring Club Italiano, prima Ed. 1939; seconda Ed. 1963; terza Ed. 1980.
  • "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali", di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
  • "Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso" di G. Berruto, volume 2° Ed. I.G.C. Torino 1981, 2000.
  • "80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d'Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.
  • "Gran Paradiso" A. Gegenfurtner, G. Klotz, F. Müller, Ed. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Monaco 1980 (in tedesco).
  • "Gran Paradiso" G. Klotz Ed. Bergverlag GmbH Rother, Monaco 2005 (in tedesco).
  • "Rifugi e bivacchi in Valle d'Aosta", di Cosimo Zappelli aggiornata da Pietro Giglio, Musumeci Editore, Luglio 2002.
  • "Diari Alpinistici" di Osvaldo Cardellina e Indice Generale accompagnato da Schedario Relazioni Ascensioni 1964-2014 (inediti).
MAPS:
  • Kompass "Gran Paradiso Valle d'Aosta" Sentieri e rifugi-Carta turistica 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale "Gran Paradiso La Grivola Cogne" Carta 1:25.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale "Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso" 1:50.000.
  • I.G.M. Istituto Geografico Militare Foglio 41 "Gran Paradiso-Cogne" 1:25.000.
  • AIAT Cogne "Gran Paradiso" Cogne Aymavilles-Walking map 1:25.000.
  • Enrico Editore Ivrea "Gruppo del Gran Paradiso" 1:50.000.
  • Studio F.M.B. Bologna "Gran Paradiso" 1:50.000.
  • L'Escursionista "Valle di Cogne Carta dei Sentieri" (n°10) 1:25.000.
  • L'Escursionista "Tour de la Vallée de Cogne Grand Paradis" Carta dei sentieri 1:25.000.

Important Information

Useful Numbers

  • Soccorso Alpino Cogne (SAR) Tel. 3482685406.
  • Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
  • Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
  • Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.

Images