Welcome to SP!  -
The famous 4000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Ayas Valley)
List
Contribute 
 
Geography

The famous 4000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Ayas Valley)

 
The famous 4000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no <b>(Ayas Valley)</b>

Page Type: List

Location: Aosta Valley/Suisse, Italy, Europe

Object Title: The famous 4000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Ayas Valley)

 

Page By: Antonio Giani

Created/Edited: Feb 25, 2013 / Sep 6, 2014

Object ID: 840121

Hits: 1227 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

The Aosta Valley (Italy) is one of the most famous and beautiful mountainous countries in the world. It holds many impressive mountains like Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) and Gran Paradiso. But there are also many 4000meter peaks which are well known all over the world: For example the Dente del Gigante, Grandes Jorasses, Breithorn, Roc, Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey and Lyskamm.

La Valle d'Aosta è una delle regioni italiane più conosciute nel mondo per suoi grandi Massicci Alpini, Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) e Gran Paradiso. Ma ci sono anche altre moltissime vette famose di oltre 4.000 metri tra le quali si ricordano il Dente del Gigante, Les Grandes Jorasses, il Breithorn, il Castore, il Polluce, l'Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, il Roc, la Dent d'Hérens e i Lyskamm.

Ayas Valley (Monte Rosa)

☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺

BREITHORN 4165m


    First ascent: Henry Maynard, Joseph-Marie Couttet, Jean-Baptiste Herin, Jean-Jacques Herin and Jean Gras, (Aug 13th, 1813).
    Difficulty: F.
    Difference in height: About 685m. From Plateau Rosà.
    Refuge: Rifugio Guide del Cervino (3480m). Places when open: 40.
    Ascent time: 3,30-4,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, and crampons.


ROCCIA NERA / SCHWARZFLUH 4075m


    First ascent: John Stafford Anderson, Ulrich Almer and Aloys Pollinger, (Aug 16th, 1884).
    Difficulty: AD/AD+
    Difference in height: About 600m. From Plateau Rosà.
    Refuge: Rifugio Guide del Cervino (3480m). Places when open: 40. Bivacco fisso Rossi-Volante (3850m).
    Ascent time: 4,30-5,30.
    Descent: From SW Wall or along the same route.
    Equipment:High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


POLLUCE / POLLUX 4091m


    First ascent: Jules Jacot, Peter Taugwalder and Josef-Marie Perren, (Aug 01th, 1864).
    Difficulty: PD+/AD-.
    Difference in height: About 2400m. From Saint-Jacques.
    Refuge: Rifugio Guide della Valle d'Ayas (3425m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 16 places.
    Ascent time: 8,30-9,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

Books and Maps

BOOKS:
  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia - Alpi Pennine (Vol. 2)" di Gino Buscaini - Club Alpino Italiano/Turing Club Italiano, Luglio 1970 (In Italian).
  • "Diari Alpinistici" di Osvaldo Cardellina e Indice Generale accompagnato da Schedario Relazioni Ascensioni 1964-2014 (inediti).
  • "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali" di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
  • "Rifugi e bivacchi in Valle d'Aosta", di Cosimo Zappelli aggiornata da Pietro Giglio, Musumeci Editore, Luglio 2002.
  • "I Rifugi della Valle d'Aosta" di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Febbraio 2003.
MAPS:
  • Kompass "Breuil/Cervinia-Zermatt" Carta turistica 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Cervino e Monte Rosa" 1:50.000.
  • Studio F.M.B. "Cervino Monte Rosa" Bologna 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Monte Rosa Alagna e Macugnaga" (n°10), 1:50.000.

Important Information

Useful Numbers

  • Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
  • Bollettino Valanghe Tel. 0165-776300.
  • Bollettino Meteo Tel. 0165-44113.
  • Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.

Images

West Breithorn