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The famous 4000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Courmayeur-Ferret Valley)
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The famous 4000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Courmayeur-Ferret Valley)

 
The famous 4000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no <b>(Courmayeur-Ferret Valley)</b>

Page Type: List

Location: Aosta Valley/France, Italy, Europe

Object Title: The famous 4000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Courmayeur-Ferret Valley)

 

Page By: Antonio Giani

Created/Edited: Feb 23, 2013 / Sep 6, 2014

Object ID: 839819

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Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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Overview

The Aosta Valley (Italy) is one of the most famous and beautiful mountainous countries in the world. It holds many impressive mountains like Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) and Gran Paradiso. But there are also many 4000meter peaks which are well known all over the world: For example the Dente del Gigante, Grandes Jorasses, Breithorn, Roc, Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey and Lyskamm.

La Valle d'Aosta è una delle regioni italiane più conosciute nel mondo per suoi grandi Massicci Alpini, Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) e Gran Paradiso. Ma ci sono anche altre moltissime vette famose di oltre 4.000 metri tra le quali si ricordano il Dente del Gigante, Les Grandes Jorasses, il Breithorn, il Castore, il Polluce, l'Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, il Roc, la Dent d'Hérens e i Lyskamm.

Courmayeur Ferret Valley (Monte Bianco)

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DENTE DEL GIGANTE / DENT DU GÉANT 4013m


    First ascent: Alessandro Sella, Alfonso Sella, Corradino Sella, Gaudenzio Sella, Jean Joseph Maquignaz, Battista Maquignaz and Daniele Maquignaz, (Jul 29th, 1882).
    Difficulty: AD+/D-.
    Difference in height: About 640m from Ref. Torino (3375m).
    Refuge: Rifugio Torino (3375m). Places when open: 190 places.
    Ascent time: 3,30-4,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLE DE ROCHEFORT 4001m


    First ascent: Ettore Allegra, Laurent Croux, Pierre Dayné and Alexis Brocherel, (Jul 18th, 1900, in descent).
    Difficulty: AD.
    Difference in height: about 700m from Ref. Torino (3375m).
    Refuge: Rifugio Torino (3375m). Places when open: 190 places.
    Ascent time: 4,00-5,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


DÔME DE ROCHEFORT 4016m


    First ascent: A. Piccioni and Luciano Pasi, (Sep *18-19th, 1971).
    Difficulty: TD/ED.
    Difference in height: About 2423m from Planpincieux.
    Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 24 places.
    Ascent time: *.
    Descent: From normal route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.


GRANDES JORASSES 4208m


    First ascent: Horace Walker, Melchior Anderegg, Johann Jaun and Julien Grange (Jun 30th, 1868).
    Difficulty: AD.
    Difference in height: About 2615m from Planpincieux.
    Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 24 places.
    Ascent time: 10,00-10,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.


GRANDES JORASSES PUNTA WHYMPER 4184m

    First ascent: Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Christian Almer and Franz Biner, (Jun 24th, 1865).
    Difficulty: AD.
    Difference in height: About 2591m from Planpincieux.
    Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 25 places.
    Ascent time: 8,00-9,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.


GRANDES JORASSES PUNTA CROZ 4108m

    First ascent: E. Hasenclever, W. Klemm, F. König and R. Weitzeboch, (Aug 24th, 1909).
    Difficulty: AD+.
    Difference in height: About 2515m from Planpincieux.
    Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 25 places.
    Ascent time: 6,30-7,30 hours.
    Descent: From normal route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.


GRANDES JORASSES PUNTA ELENA 4042m

    First ascent: Duca degli Abruzzi, Joseph Petigax, Laurent Croux and Felix Ollier, (Aug 22th, 1898).
    Difficulty: AD+.
    Difference in height: About 2449m from Planpincieux.
    Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 25 places.
    Ascent time: 6,00-7,00 hours.
    Descent: From normal route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.


GRANDES JORASSES PUNTA MARGHERITA 4065m


    First ascent: Duca degli Abruzzi, Joseph Petigax, Laurent Croux and Felix Ollier, (Aug 22th, 1898).
    Difficulty: D+/TD-.
    Difference in height: About 2472m from Planpincieux.
    Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 25 places.
    Ascent time: 8,30-9,30 hours.
    Descent: From normal route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.


Refuges telephone numbers

Books and Maps

BOOKS:
  • "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali", di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Monte Bianco" (Vol. I°) di Gino Buscaini-Club Alpino Italiano/Turing Club Italiano, 1994 (in Italian).
  • "I Rifugi della Valle d'Aosta" di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Febbraio 2003.
  • "A piedi in Valle d'Aosta" (Vol. 1), di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Giugno 2003.
  • "80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d'Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.
MAPS:
  • Kompass "Massiccio del Monte Bianco Valle d'Aosta Sentieri e Rifugi" Carta turistica 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Massiccio del Monte Bianco" (n°4), Torino, 1998 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Monte Bianco-Courmayeur-Chamonix-La Thuile" (n°107), 1:25.000.
  • Kompass "Massiccio del Monte Bianco Valle d'Aosta" Carta escursioni, bike e sci alpinismo 1:50.000.
  • L'Escursionista "Monte Bianco Courmayeur" (n°1) Edizioni Rimini 2004 1:25.000.
  • IGN Carte de randonnée CHAMONIX - MASSIF DU MONT BLANC 3630 OT 1:25.000.
  • Edizioni Tabacco "Mont Blanc" Udine, 1978 1:50.000.
  • Studio F.M.B. Bologna 1988 "Monte Bianco-Mont Blanc" 1:50.000.
  • IGN institut géographique national genoble mont-blanc parc national de la vanoise (n°53), 1:100.000.

Important Information

Useful numbers

  • Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
  • Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
  • Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.

Images

Grandes JorassesAiguille de RochefortPunta WhymperLes Grandes JorassesDente del GigantePunta MargheritaPunta Elena
Aiguille de RochefortPunta Croz