The free crux of the route: a...

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The free crux of the route: a 5.10d - 5.11a "gully" (~20 feet long) just below top of P1 of Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art. We did it "A0 style". Note the small nubbins/stones embedded in the mud (December 24, 2004). JD added the following: The rating is inaccurate. Most folks I've talked with put it at about 10b or so. I've even freed it twice, so it can't be 5.11!
I thought p3 (5.9?) felt about the same. Go figure.

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Dave Daly

Ropeman?

Hasn't voted

After you fixed this, you should have had someone climb this free using a Ropeman to get a feel of what it would be like to climb mud....."free".

Posted Dec 30, 2004 12:56 am


	rpc	Re: Ropeman?
	Hasn't voted	yeah. it's probably not that bad. the route must see a ton of traffic (though probably 1999 lbs of that is done A0 like us) so I'd imagine most holds/mud on this section are pretty clean....it's falling onto the drilled pitons in "mud" that could be exciting (then again it's like 3 or 4 of them in a 15 foot stretch). 10d is more than I've ever tried so did not even attempt it. thnx for stopping by Dave.
		Posted Dec 30, 2004 1:28 pm


	rpc	Re: Ropeman?
	Hasn't voted	JD, I think you're right. It did not look THAT hard (10+) to my unaccustomed eye (but I can't say since I did not try this part free). But I also thought that upper (P3) crux was harder than it looked. Seeing it from the belay below I thought I could free it but I slipped off on the last move below the belay anchor. Maybe it's not a typo in supertopo which gives both cruxes the same rating (though it probably gives too high of a rating to both)? The crux is standing up straight and appearing composed on the summit. Yeap!
		Posted Dec 30, 2004 2:51 pm