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The Importance of Being Ernest, 5.10D R
Route

The Importance of Being Ernest, 5.10D R

 
The Importance of Being Ernest, 5.10D R

Page Type: Route

Object Title: The Importance of Being Ernest, 5.10D R

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.10d (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.10 C/D R

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: MichaelJ

Created/Edited: Apr 6, 2009 / Apr 6, 2009

Object ID: 504051

Hits: 1131 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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The Importance of Thin Nuts

This is a great, somewhat serious route with a lot of variety, not to mention run-out and tricky pro. It's easy to top rope by doing any other route on the wall, but where would the fun be in that? If you're solid at the grade, give 'er.

Getting There

Park at the Hemingway Buttress parking lot and take the obvious trail to the wall. Find White Lightning, the obvious wide crack on the left side, then move right until you spot an X-shaped crack under a big roof.

Route Description

Climb the left trending crack, burly hands and fists. Get rid of the bigger gear here. Two golds and a gray will protect this nicely. First crux.

Shake out and ascend the slab, gearing up the crack as you see fit. Red and green C4s.

Double up the TCUs in the roof and fire it. No pro for two body lengths above. Second crux.

Thin moves lead to sinker jams and Thank God gear. Sew up the thin crack with small nuts. Mental crux.

A wild stem move up to the second roof, plug in a finger-sized cam, and figure out the exit moves. Technical crux.

Bolted rap rings on top.


Essential Gear

Cams to #2, TCUs, lots of thin nuts, plus a couple of big ones.

Images

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