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deathzonescience 5.8 variation, 12 pitches  Sucess!


Approach takes about an hour each way. Required about 4 hours of climbing, 12 pitches with most difficult being 5.8. Mixed trad and sport climbing. Plenty of anchor building options and good pro placement. Went in July and it was hot. I would recommend climbing in late Spring or Fall rather than July. Very hot.
Posted Jul 30, 2013 2:07 pm

bedellympianquick adventure multi  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 25, 2012


Took ~2.5 hrs but did the direct route to the Tail (5.8 R?) instead of rapping down and doing the 2 5.7 bolted pitches. Great view and position, best of any route I've seen at Smith. Rock quality is not so good for the most part though. Would like to link to Thin Air and Birds in a Rut for a "19" pitch day.
Posted Nov 26, 2012 12:30 am

Brian JenkinsFun in the sun
Date Climbed: Mar 4, 2012

Brian Jenkins

With Karl on a 70 degree day at Smith. Did the first 6 pitches but then hit our turnaround time and rapped down from Brogan Spire to the cave, through the cave and down the Cave Route. Hope to go back and finish up the last 2 pitches.
Posted Mar 5, 2012 11:42 am

cluckGreat Smith Adventure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 28, 2009


The most adventure you can have at Smith! I can confirm Corvallis's suggestion that you unrope at the top of Pitch 2 and walk over to the anchors at the North end of The Mudpile. From those anchors, you can protect the downclimb, traverse, and moves all the way to the top of Mini Half Dome with a 60M rope.

We goofed up the descent and rapped down the east face instead of the west face. Fortunately, our double 60M ropes landed us safely (just barely) near the start of the Cave Route. After re-reading the route description, it sounds like we were supposed to rap down the other side (facing Koala rock). Oh well.
Posted Mar 30, 2009 11:26 am

Karl HelserThird time...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 25, 2008

Karl Helser

The second time I lead the first six pitches before being chased off Brogan Spire by lightning. Last Saturday three of up completed all 8-pitches in about 6-hours. The crux of the whole climb are probably the first few bolts on pitch #1, and the couple of moves to get up around the right side of The Tail on pitch #7.
Posted Oct 28, 2008 8:28 am

Karl HelserFun stuff!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 17, 2008

Karl Helser

Great climb. Took about 3.5 hours for the four of us. Lots of variety.
Posted May 22, 2008 12:02 am

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