Last minute decision to climb and the only one to step up was my friend, George. It was his first ever multi-pitch and TRAD climb and he did really well. It took us about 7 hours house-to-house from Albuquerque.
I didn't read the previous post before I went out in regards to the rating. I went out with crampons, ice axe etc. and couldnt get more then 100' up from the saddle. This is a sandbagged rating, this is harder then some of the other rated routes in the sandias.
A friend and I attempted the East Saddle Route but were turned around for lack of time. There was much more snow in the Sandias than expected...and the supposed 4th class seemed more like a 5.4 with the exposure and non-straightforwardness. We turned around after realizing the time, and viewing a section of loose blocks that looked unappealing. I would like to go back and complete it when I have the time!
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe