The nifty anchors at the top... | [ Sizes: Orig | Med | Small | Thumb ] |
The nifty anchors at the top of The Poodle Bites. Are you feeling lucky, punk? Alabama HIlls, CA. Comments[ Post a Comment ] | rhyang | yikes ! | | 
Voted 10/10 | 
| | Posted Mar 30, 2005 12:28 pm |
| Matthew Holliman | ¡Ay Caramba! | | 
Hasn't voted | Maybe I'll put off climbing here after all... | | Posted Mar 30, 2005 2:02 pm |
 | | b. | Re: ¡Ay Caramba! | | 
Hasn't voted | What? These look fine to me! At least it's granite, and not sandstone. Go test you luck in Utah someday! | | Posted Mar 30, 2005 3:42 pm |
| | rhyang | Re: ¡Ay Caramba! | |
Voted 10/10 | oh, we've got sandstone all right. in fact, mossy, lichen-encrusted sandstone. but I guess the rusty old look to the anchors is a bit much ... | | Posted Mar 30, 2005 4:35 pm |
| | Steve Larson | Re: ¡Ay Caramba! | | 
Hasn't voted | I think this is the only case of manky anchors in the area. Everything else we saw had beefy, well placed, redundant anchors. I'd bring a hammer next time, though, and treat them like any other fixed pin placement. The rock is sound, I'd just like to know that the placements aren't loose. Bettter yet, bring a bolt kit and just replace them. | | Posted Mar 30, 2005 5:11 pm |
| rpc | Nice photo. | | 
Voted 10/10 | But bthere is right. This is "standard" look of fixed anchors around Moab from my very limited experience. I've read arguments that these drilled angles make more durable fixed anchors in sandstone than bolts - of course this ain't sandstone. The rusty color is most likely just "surface" oxidation....most likely being the key phrase here ;)
| | Posted Mar 30, 2005 5:51 pm |
| | Steve Larson | Re: Nice photo. | |
Hasn't voted | Having seen the genuine article up close, I'll vouch for it's being just surface corrosion. | | Posted Mar 30, 2005 9:02 pm |
| Dave Daly | Worked Up Over.... | | 
Hasn't voted | Nothing! Actaully, this is a bomber as a bolted anchor. Rusty on the surface, yes. But the integrity of the anchor is probably bomber. Know your gear, folks! | | Posted May 5, 2006 12:01 am |
| skunk ape | Nifty | | 
Voted 10/10 | Nice shot, Looks safer than some of the spinning bolts out there. | | Posted Feb 26, 2007 6:57 pm |
| | rpc | Re: Nifty | |
Voted 10/10 | Keeping things in perspective :)
Belay anchor in the desert:
Lead bolt just above this belay anchor:
...fortunately there's no more such bolts above (instead there's a 20 foot runout). | | Posted Feb 26, 2007 7:41 pm |
| brutus of wyde | Anchors... | | 
Hasn't voted | Getting good anchors in the Alabama Hills is mostly a matter of luck. The exfoliating nature of the granite means that, despite best intentions and thorough sounding of the rock, some bolt holes pass through good rock into air or decomposed granite. The results vary from spinner bolts to bolts that can be removed by hand (as was the case here).
Some locals are placing 8" x 1/2" bolts in this area for this reason. Needless to say, those monsters are not hand drilled!
Brutus | | Posted Mar 12, 2008 7:04 am |
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Rock and Ice climbing anchors (Album)
The Alabama Hills (Area/Range)
