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MoabPeakBaggerRoute Comment


Hasn't voted

I think too much is made of this climb. It's really not as difficult as it's made out to be. Class 3 tops.

Start out from the saddle heading east (upwards) and traverse a good 20 to 30 feet below the ridgeline on the south side. There are a couple of cairns marking good spots to do some Class 3 traverse moves around the long "crows feet" of rock. After you go across two prominent crows feet, the cairns will end, and there is a steep, chossy and scree-ey gully that you should climb, since the crows feet traverses get much worse after that. Carefully pick your way up the gully, using the bedrock for handholds (look around-- good handholds in the bedrock abound, just be sure to check your holds twice ad thre times before applying weight), and take the ridge. From here, you can stay on the ridgeline almost all the way up to Talking Mountain (the bump before you reach the Peale ridgeline). Most of the way there is a faintly beaten trail along the ridgeline, and for the most part it stays right on top (with some slight diversions to the south when spires stick up a bit). Really, the crux of the route is the steep gully climb.
Posted Oct 28, 2003 11:41 pm

rmjwintersRoute Comment


Hasn't voted

I agree with the overhype especially in Knighton's book. When it did the traverse, I stayed on the ridge proper. The stacked dinner-plate talus made it tricky. My best advice to anyone regardless of route is to not trust ANY of the rock.
Posted Oct 30, 2003 2:37 pm

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