Rockclimber77 - Oct 24, 2011 3:58 pm - Voted 10/10
careful with that rope!To much pulling on the stuck rope can damage the rope, if you feel you pulled to hard with mechanical advantages of a pulley system you may want to retire it.
PellucidWombat - Oct 24, 2011 4:05 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: careful with that rope!Yeah, I was worried about that. I suspect the rope is still OK, but I should work out the numbers to be sure.
Somehow the static line wrapped around itself at the anchor, forming something like a Klemheist. Once we reached a certain load that took out the elastic stretch in the climbing rope, the rope moved with the same resistance, at whatever the self-formed Klemheist was generating at the anchor. You could barely move it with a Z-system but you could comfortably haul with the added C-system (and it made it easier to tell resistance wasn't increasing as we pulled more). We could pull by hand once we passed the knot and only had the static line left to pull.
I specifically told my partner to be careful about keeping the lines clean when he threaded the anchor once I was on the rim, so I don't know how this happened. Any suggestions on how to avoid this in the future would be nice! The static line was new, so perhaps we hadn't flaked it enough to prevent twisting?
Rockclimber77 - Oct 24, 2011 4:50 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: careful with that rope!I have had many stuck ropes, all after a repel and pulling the rope. you must aid a lot if you are climbing with 1 static and 1 dynamic line.. anyway i usually just blame my climbing partner when it gets stuck and try to send him up to get it unstuck. this does not always work as at times i have had to climb up and unstick my own rope. I always flake a new rope, could also be how you coil it before you throw the rope, however when tired after along days climb fast is never better but generally the way we descend. also check the line of your repel the repel anchor that has already been set up may not be the best option I have before removed repel anchors and moved it to a more suitable straight forward location. I have also ruined a rope from pulling to hard, a lump formed in the middle of the rope. I cut the rope and now use it for short top roping :)
PellucidWombat - Oct 24, 2011 5:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: careful with that rope!"you must aid a lot if you are climbing with 1 static and 1 dynamic line."
I'm planning on doing some big walls so just got a new static line to start practicing hauling. It is easiest to do the climb w/ 3 ropes, so we brought the static line as our third rope.
"anyway i usually just blame my climbing partner when it gets stuck and try to send him up to get it unstuck"
Heh, pretty much what I did, though since we couldn't really 'climb back up' to the anchor, I let him do most of the hauling >:-)
I checked both ropes later and there were no odd lumps or damage to the sheath, so at least with a cursory check the rope seems fine. I'll check the numbers though, since it would probably be good to know how hard hauling like that really is on a climbing rope.
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