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The Uneventful
Route

The Uneventful

 
The Uneventful

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: The Uneventful

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.5 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.5, maybe some harder sections

Number of Pitches: 6

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Aaron Dyer, Blair

Created/Edited: Sep 22, 2008 / Oct 26, 2008

Object ID: 445678

Hits: 2531 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

The Uneventful is found on Tahquitz' North Buttress. The easiest approach if via the North Face trail from Humber Park. This route is found on the left of two ridges that are at the bottom of the North Buttress, to the right of the ridge that borders the right (west) side of the Lark routes.

A fun route that is as-advertised 5.5 (for the most part) with the whole gambit of climbing moves that are very fun. Most belays are on nice ledges, and the gear goes well. One could be as traditional (nuts and hexes) or modern (cams) as you want with several nice cracks to sink your gear into.

Route Description

P1- Ascend the groove with some liebacking and crack jamming, pretty obvious routefinding will lead you up to the left to a small ledge before the 'Jungle section' where you weave up and around the trees. Belay at any tree, with fixed slings. 5.5

P2- Continue up thru the jungle, following the crest up to a blocky outcrop which gains the ridge proper. Up the fun blocky section and vere right to a cool crack that will meander along up and slightly to the right before reaching a nice two-level belay ledge with a bush on the bottom. 5.4

P3 and P4- Looking up you will see a left facing corner system to the right, this will be where you go. From the belay, meander up between shrubs straight up until you can move right to the left facing corner system. Fun and slightly harder climbing brings you up past a fixed piton to a overhang just after a loose tree growing out of the corner. You can belay here, to better protect the leader as they surmount the overhang. Beware - a belay here is tricky and a little uncomfortable, but may be better for your party and level of climbing ability. After the overhang, follow up to a ledge that shares with the North Buttress route. A tree with fixed slings can be used for anchoring the 5th, crux pitch. 5.5+

P5- From the belay tree, you will see a J shaped tree hanging out into the air, and a vertical, stout and imposing left facing corner/chimney with 3 overlaps above. Climb up the corner using a variety of good jams, feet and corner technique, until the body positioning becomes slightly easier as you enter the overhangs. Pull through the over hangs on good jams and exit onto the slab to the right of the last roof to finish around the corner on a ledge/corner system. Make sure to look around while on this pitch, as there are plenty of useful holds on both the left wall and the right arete. The Chimney/Left facing corner is the crux of the route, with many people giving different opinions of the difficulty. 5.6-

P6-
Low 5th Class, maybe 5.3 climbing up a 3-4 foot wide Gully/Crack with chockstones leads you up to the top, walk off to the summit if you like. If you have a 60m rope, you will need every bit of it to get to a nice flat tree belay at the top of the climb unless you were able to stretch P5 out (which would be hard due to rope drag).

Essential Gear

Trad rack up to 3.5 inches, including a fair amount of small nuts and cams. 10 Slings. A #9 Hex is very useful!
60m rope. The route was first climbed with a 50m, so keep that in mind, but as mentioned above, be careful in the transition between the 5th and 6th pitches with your rope length. We had a 60m rope and finished pitch 6 with about 2 extra feet of rope.

First Ascent

FA- Harry Daley, Yvon Chouinard, Dan Doody and C. Butler in October 1959.

Link

Here is thread a on the route, which has some more information .

Images

Penelope May on the wonderful...Variation to the "J" Tree PitchThe UneventfulEscape to North Buttress GullyThe "J" Tree