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There are many routes on...

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There are many routes on...
There are many routes on middle Zoo. Here are the four classics:

1. The Dihedral (5.6): Bring some very large cams. 80 ft.

2. Crazy Alice (5.8): Sustained 5.8 all the way to the top. Very good route. Bring small-medium cams/hexes and a set of stoppers.

3. Dr. Coolhead (5.10a): This is a great route. If it had a couple of more bolts (especially down low) it would be even better. Most top-rope it because the first bolt is about 30 ft up.

4. Richard Pryor (5.9): A wandering route. Bring some long runners and medium pro.

There are also several routes in the cracks to the right. Two sets of anchor chains are at the top of these routes.

Photo and editing by Alan Ellis.


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Dave DalyRoof Aloof

Dave Daly

Hasn't voted


How 'bout that splitter that goes through the large roof just to the right of Richard Pryor? Has it been done? Good or bad condition, if so.....?
Posted Nov 6, 2004 12:29 am

Alan EllisRe: Roof Aloof

Alan Ellis

Hasn't voted

The split to the left is "Sweet Jesus" (5.9) and the split to the right is "Critical Mass" (10.b). The ramp below and to the right is 5.6 and some belay from the ledge under the roof and do the splitter as a second pitch. It is described as a three star route. I've never done it, but now you've renewed my interest.

I guess I need to add the route on the photo.......
Posted Nov 6, 2004 9:06 am

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Alan EllisSubmitted by Alan Ellis
on Mar 20, 2004 7:42 am

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