Three Fingered Jack Climber's Log

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lalpinist

lalpinist - Nov 12, 2007 7:16 pm Date Climbed: Nov 9, 2007

Windy  Sucess!

Forecast was for rain, but it was a gorgeous sunny day. Incredibly windy up top - we ate a lot of dust and had a few pebbles falling down on us as we crossed the ridge. Some snow patches between 6,000 and 6,500, but there was no need for showshoes or crampons. That may change starting tomorrow.

KMM

KMM - Oct 7, 2007 1:48 am

Post 58/936!  Sucess!

Did this one with Tim Hale. A great climb with great gram cracker climbing!!!

YEM

YEM - Aug 20, 2007 6:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006

South Ridge  Sucess!

Mazama climb. 3FJ is a big pile of crap, but gotta be done if you live near Portland. With the exception of the last pitch, every step moves below you. It was a quick climb with good views of the area.

bmwboarder7

bmwboarder7 - Jul 23, 2007 12:33 am

Winter Climb

We tried it in the winter this year. Made it close, but snowshoeing in exhausted us pretty good with a late start. We'll be back to finish it.

thundercloud

thundercloud - May 25, 2007 5:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2002

South Ridge  Sucess!

Fun times.

Matthew Holliman

Matthew Holliman - Dec 1, 2006 3:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2006

South Ridge  Sucess!

With Bob and Rick on a tour of the OR Cascades. This was my favourite peak of the ones I climbed--cruddy rock but interesting scrambling, and some nice views under clear skies. I pulled out a huge handhold while leading the chimney section, which spooked me a bit as we had little pro, and even less confidence that any I'd placed would actually hold.

Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Oct 16, 2006 12:37 pm Date Climbed: Oct 14, 2006

Great climb..  Sucess!

Great climb on what could have been the last nice day of the summer climb season. Six in our group so it was a wait at the summit block. Not enough room for more than a couple. The pics on this page made it look harder than it was. I'll do this one again.

Dennis Poulin

Dennis Poulin - Sep 22, 2006 9:58 pm Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2002

South Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed with a group from Oregon Mountaineering Association. First time I ever rapelled.

Turbo

Turbo - Aug 14, 2006 1:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2006

Route Climbed: South Ridge  Sucess!

Summited this clever peak twice in five days. First, on August 3, and again on August 8. Climbed the south ridge both times. Great climb and a excellent view from the top (of course).

Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Jul 22, 2006 2:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2006

South Ridge  Sucess!

One of the easier days of our 9 day Cascade tour. Climbed with Matthew and Rick under fine weather conditions. Trip Report

cascadetraveler

cascadetraveler - Jan 20, 2006 9:36 pm

Route Climbed: south ridge. Date Climbed: july 31st 2004.  Sucess!

An awsome little mountain. It is awfully exposed, lots of loose rock. I think the mountain justifies a roped pitch before the crawl and directly after. We did niether. I personally was OK with that. I know others were extremely uncomfortable. I found the rock sound when it needed to be The views are spectacular. It is truly the smallest summit I may ever get to stand on.

YetiBauer

YetiBauer - Oct 27, 2005 5:09 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: October 9,2005  Sucess!

A previous day of high snow made the peak seem daunting from below. Brilliant sunshine warmed the rock and dried up the parts we needed to use really sweet. We got to the “crawl” around 1 PM, waited for a mountain guide and his client to clear the route. After that it was all ours! My partners were Nolana Horning and Bob Koca. Although I did not feel the summit pitch worthy of the 5.6 rating, I must say the view off the east face affords much exposure for the uninitiated or seasoned. On another occasion I had scrambled the 4th class “crawl” in low visibility failing to realize the ramifications of a slip. I highly recommend roping up and protecting the “crawl”. A single 50M rope with the second person tied in past the center mark and the third person on the end worked well for us. I did it all with wired stoppers, medium hexes and tri-cams. Do not leave your helmet in the car to save weight! Henry Bauer



mandrake

mandrake - Aug 25, 2005 6:17 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2005  Sucess!

Turned out to be a great day for climbing up there -- I was expecting a long hot day, but we lucked out with a cool break in the weather. Lots of exposure to keep you focused, but the climbing was otherwise excellent. Bits immediately pre & post Crawl seemed to be the sketchiest part of the route.

DagiTig

DagiTig - Jun 8, 2005 2:21 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 31, 2004  Sucess!

A beautiful day for climbing! I found the crawl and chimney climb much easier than I anticipated. I found myself sitting for a while at the base of the chimney due to a large group that got ahead of us, but the summit was incredible, and it was a great weekend with friends!

cluck

cluck - Oct 18, 2004 5:21 pm

Route Climbed: South ridge Date Climbed: 10/16/2004  Sucess!

Might have gotten the last summit of 2004 last Saturday, 10/16. Nice sunny weather and a bit of wind for most of the climb. Clouds started pouring in late in the afternoon. Couldn't see 3FJ from Smith Rock the next day because of low clouds, but looks like snow level was down to about 5000' or less. So, unless it warms up a bunch and gets sunny soon, anyone headed up that way should expect snow on the route.

Andinistaloco

Andinistaloco - Oct 6, 2004 9:37 pm

Route Climbed: south ridge (is there another way?) Date Climbed: summer 2002  Sucess!

Some of the best exposure in the state! I was the only one up top on this day , excepting a cloud of mosquitos that followed me for the last mile or so.....



dkantola

dkantola - Oct 5, 2004 1:18 am

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: September 27, 2004  Sucess!

I climbed with Cornvallis on a Monday and saw no one else all day. The rotten scramble before the Crawl is pretty unpleasant. That and the burnt approach hike makes me unlikely to return anytime soon.

dkantola

dkantola - Aug 24, 2004 9:46 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: August 21, 2004  Sucess!

Waited two hours at the summit pinnacle for a group of 12 Mazamas to clear the route. About eight more people were on their way up as we descended. This is the most exposed summit in the Oregon Cascades. Jefferson probably comes next, followed by Thielsen, North Sister, and Broken Top.

e.acar - Jul 19, 2004 11:51 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July, 18'04  Sucess!

Started at 5:30 am from PCT trailhead with Chemeketans. Got back at 6:30 pm. Other than very little rain and clouds of mosquitos we did not encounter any problems. You may consider taking a Deet shower before hitting this mountain. Exposure along summit pitches was thrilling.

Pawkala

Pawkala - Jul 2, 2004 12:01 am

Route Climbed: South Route Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!

Started out noonish from the parking lot and set up camp on the saddle. Had about 3 hours to mess around so we hiked up to check out the crawl and then back down for some rappeling off a cliff just NE of the ridge. Had a stormy night and witnessed the most amazing sunrise ever. The strong southwest winds blew clouds over the ridge and dropped them onto the east side right in front of the sun. It looked like inverse fire flamming all around us. Stayed in our sacks for a while hoping the winds would die down but finally got out and going hoping for the best. Awesome climb with plenty of exposure to a viewless top on that day. Roped up for the crawl and the top section. Great experinece.

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