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Three Fingered Jack Climber's Log

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HarvestSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2015


South Ridge Route. Class 5 (YDS 5.1)

I climbed with Jon and Lorraine. A Santiam Alpine Club climb. Led by Nathan and assisted by Adrian. 12 in the party split into two climbing teams.

Fog and rain all day but still a very fun climb!
Posted Mar 30, 2017 3:33 am

Vic HansonGreat exposure   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2016

Vic Hanson

Climbed with my friend Jason, who soloed the crawl and the final chute and belayed me on those sections. We only had a 30 foot rope so down climbed using the rope and a couple of slings for protection. Very exposed but easy climbing.We were pleasantly surprised how solid the holds were. Total round trip time was 7 hours, 20 minutes.
Posted Aug 11, 2016 2:39 pm

Matt LemkeLoose pile of sand!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2015

Matt Lemke

Nice hike on the trail but the loose sand going up to the summit area was so loose it was interesting. I solod the summit pitch while Jayme waited just below. I then rappelled down. Man that is one small and exposed place!
Posted Jan 12, 2016 9:17 pm

nicozonePlaying around in December
Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2013


The weather was foggy, but the predictions were low winds and no new snow accumulation. We car camped in the parking lot right off of OR-126. The morning of our climb was overcast with low-hanging fog that kept us from ever seeing the peak, but we via snowshoes for several hours along the PCT before deciding to bag it and head home to warm up and grab a beer.
Posted Sep 28, 2015 6:03 pm

emilieSuccess  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2015


Super grateful we roped up for "the crawl" and the summit pinnacle!
Posted Jul 17, 2015 1:33 am

rmick25Never again  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2014


Went solo with gear hoping for group up top. Lucked out they let me rap their rope. Foot hold broke one move from top. Super Sketchy.
Posted Feb 11, 2015 5:29 pm

RkapmanSeptember  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2014


came up from the PCT made it to the slight overhang, roped up on the traverse for safety, made it to the wall right after a mazama group. We waited for their ascent then made our ascent. Windy up at the pinnacle but sunny, lots of bugs, group of about 5 of us
Posted Dec 1, 2014 5:03 pm

SawtoothSeanCluster  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2014


Easy PCT approach, steep but short slof to ridge and then fun traverse. I thought the hype about loose rock was overdone. We watched a big group of Mazamas rope climb almost every part even the class 3 stuff before the Crawl. They were cool though and let us solo through. Rope was only needed for a short rap off summit. We brought the 30m. The scree decent was epically fast! Great sunny weather.
Posted Sep 3, 2014 11:04 pm

kraymesSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2014


Freak show choss. The insect hatch/swarm on the summit was freakish too. From the summit could see the Bridge Complex fire bloom out.
Posted Aug 12, 2014 7:18 pm

rick6003Beautiful Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2014


I marked it as successful because the main body of my group summited the mountain.

We walked in the night before to do an overnight at the base of 3FJ. I was hoping to camp on the shelf right above the PCT, too much snow so we ended up camping right on the trail. Still a nice night.

In the morning we started up the hill, I soon realized that I wasn't up for the climb today. After handing off what climb gear I was carrying , the rest of my climber's headed up. Everything went fine till the top. Other groups were taking a long time to get across. Finally at the Chimney, Andee and Katya free climbed up. Larry and Gene used prusiks. They all had a grand time as the day was just perfect.
Posted Jul 9, 2014 10:02 pm

rick6003a late report  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2012


A late report for sure,

My first time up TFJ was I made it to the Crawl and stopped there. I had went by myself, I had gotten to the trail head early so thought I might walk in and try out those space blankets since it was so warm out. first mistake was to dig out the nice warm sand besides a large rock. By about 4 am I was getting cold. I'm a restless sleeper and had punched some good sized holes in my space blanket bag.

Next attempt. We had a very foggy day, I was the only one who had been on this mountain before so was leading the way. Very cool to see it all from this perspective. the last time was a perfect sunshine day.

We roped up across the Crawl and Top roped the Summit. By this time it was getting pretty darn cold and windy. One the way back, one of us had a very hard time with the exposure. I was beginning to think we were going to have a hard time getting back down but we eventually got down to safety. Perhaps the fog helped us, they really had no idea of the exposure on this mountain, you could only see about a hundred feet or so.

I've done the standard climbs on most all of the Oregon Cascade mountains, none are as exposed as this one I believe.
Posted Feb 22, 2014 11:49 am

cjwhat12 hour day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2013


Left car at 7, returned at 7. Got off route to north on way up. Don't recommend those sketchy talus slopes. Gonna say it; crawl wasn't as scary as I've heard. David's first time with 'real' roped climbing. It was an excellent day hike.
Posted Dec 24, 2013 6:00 pm

triyodaMad Exposure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 19, 2013


Yeah, the crawl is pretty exposed, as is a lot of the ridge. The final chimney not so much. Nice summit.
Posted Oct 23, 2013 12:34 am

calebEOCBig exposure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2013


Without a doubt the most exposed bit of climbing I have experienced here in Oregon. The catwalk bit reminded me of Broken Top, and the crawl didn't look too bad initially. However you're really hanging it all out there that last 15 feet of the crawl. I was happy we took the time to set a fixed line. The last 20 feet on the summit block was also more exposure than I initially expected. Anyway, happy to have this one completed here in my 7th full year of hiking and climbing.
Posted Sep 8, 2013 11:25 pm

bedellympianchoss pile  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2013


Easy but loose... worst I've seen yet in Oregon, land of choss piles.
Posted Aug 22, 2013 1:08 am

Nick TurturaThree Words  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2012

Nick Turtura

Holy crap that was awesome! It wasn't too technical but every step had wild possibilities of plummeting to your death. It was great. The crawl wasn't bad and the chimney was cake. We had perfect weather and sat on top ogling the Cascade line. Definitely one of my favorites yet.
Posted Sep 22, 2012 11:10 pm

SKITrembling what?  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011


Solo moves on a gigantic chosspile.
Posted Sep 6, 2011 10:44 pm

RetroGearRegular Route


Back in high school I climbed Jack with buddies from Explorer Post 999. The fella with the rope was way out ahead. I remembering scrambling through the Crawl thinking "this sorta feels like where a person should rope up..."
Posted Jan 9, 2011 11:27 pm

iquest4itHe's Got the Jack   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2009


This was one of the funnest climbs in all the Cascades. We came in from one of the backside lakes on the west side, so we didn't see a soul all weekend. The summit pitch is a blast, and actually easier than it looks to lead, or should I say the rock is more solid than it looks. I want to come back and do this in the winter when it's iced up.
Posted Dec 25, 2010 5:38 am

Karl HelserSecond time...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2010

Karl Helser

Dian and I had a great day climbing 3FJ. Still a lot of snow from about 5200' and on the south ridge to just below the summit block. We jumped off the PCT and took the south ridge from the beginning...good thing, from above we could see that the pct from the bottom of the scree was still deep snow. The crawl and the summit block are snow free. The weather was perfect. Only a few other climbers...including a dude that we helped to the summit so he could release his buddy's ashes. The ashes were of a guy by the name of Norman Lee, a very well known member of The Obsidian's...an alpine climbing group. I guess he'd spent a lot of time on 3FJ. What a cool place to rest.
Posted Jul 19, 2010 4:10 pm

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