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PallandoRoute Climbed: South Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009

Pallando

Fourth of July, but the only climbers on the whole mountain! I expected to share it with at least another group.

Hiked out from Carl Lake to my car at 4:00 a.m. to meet my group at 7:00 at the trailhead. The night before I hiked the five miles in to Carl Lake to deliver food to some camping buddies. I hadn't known that they had camped so far in, otherwise I wouldn't have done the 5 miles in and out the morning before I climbed Jack...

I showed up a little late because of an alarm that didn't go off at 3:00 when it was supposed to. Hike in pushed me pretty hard, and I didn't bring enough water (I only had one full nalgene after my morning hike). I borrowed water and melted snow.

I was the only one who had read enough about the route to know what we were doing. Only spotted one pin at the crawl, never saw the other one. We brought rope but no one felt the need to protect the Crawl. The rock was a lot nicer than I expected.

We had no trad gear, but the climb was simple enough for my friend to climb up and top rope the rest of us. I had just gone off belay and was just thinking about how the rock was much nicer than any reports I had read when I grabbed a chickenhead that picked off the rock like a cherry. A definite shock, but it was the only hold that didn't stay put on the mountain. Scramble to the summit was not just a little bit exposed; I truly got shaken up a little bit a couple times. Our friend top roped the scramble again. Only two of us went to the actual summit, everyone else stopped short right before the spine (about a foot lower than the true summit). Would NOT want to be up here on a windy day! Extreme exposure on at least two sides.

Rapped off the top. Downclimbing the Crawl was a bit closer to nerve racking, but no one asked for it to be protected. In hindsight, one of my friends should have asked for a belay, he was visibly shaken a bit.

The hike out killed me. I consider myself in fairly good shape, but as I was putting in my 20th mile of the day, I was slowing down significantly.

Made it out, went to a friend's house on Blue Lake and jumped in. Fireworks in Bend tonight, and hopefully beer. Church in the morning.
Posted Jul 4, 2009 10:17 pm

patmay81A little help from my (new) friends  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009

patmay81

Got up the ridge, great hike. I was very fortunate to run into a party, since my route finding abilities and partners confidence were not up to parr with this mountain. I really owe them a huge thanks, If any of you are reading this I owe you a beer and a belay any time you want/need one in the Portland or Eugene area.
It was a really fun climb, I particularly liked the quality of the 5th class pitches and the exposure on the 4th class ridge line. A lot better climb than any one leads on to believe.
We climbed through the clouds, so I can't comment on any potential views from the summit, but the views from the ridge were pretty impressive (hoodoo to black butte).
Posted Jun 28, 2009 7:04 pm

oregonmtnmanSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2004

oregonmtnman

Made summit with Chemeketans out of Salem, Oregon. Scary mountain with big exposure. Horrible rock.Would not want to climb it again.
Posted Dec 11, 2008 12:18 am

Fred SpickerSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2008

Fred Spicker

Climbed with Moni. Great weather - crappy rock.
Posted Sep 15, 2008 8:09 am

MoniSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2008

Moni

Major air on very crappy rock! What holds this mountain together? The Crawl is the only decent rock on the whole route. With Fred.
Posted Sep 11, 2008 7:20 pm

cascadetravelerSouth ridge( only reccomended route)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2008

cascadetraveler

A great day for a rock climb!

We started out at 4:30 a.m and reached the crawl at 8:00 a.m. we put the first climber on summit at 10:30 a.m. and we were back to the trail Head at 3:15 p.m.

It was my second summit of TFJ. The exposure delivers a slam dunk! Standing on the little knife edg summit priceless. The down climb is one sketchy adventure.

Larry.
Posted Aug 24, 2008 2:30 pm

DigglerAnother one bites the dust  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008

Diggler

Left TH @ 11.46. Was happy to finally make it out of scorched forest into greenery again. Crawl had a little exposure, but really not that bad (4th class). Summit block chimney thingie was easy enough, but rock of course garbage- didn't use the rope. Summited at 15.56. Views would have been great, I'm sure, but forest fire(s?- there was at least 1 S of Mt. Washington) destroyed that- could barely make out Jefferson (bummer!). Ran after the live-dead forest junction, & made it back to the TH by 20.39 (& more importantly back to Deschutes brewpub in time to get beer & food!). Quite an enjoyable day.
Posted Aug 11, 2008 4:34 pm

Steve RydinSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2004

Steve Rydin

A beautiful day for climbing! I found the crawl and chimney climb much easier than I anticipated. I found myself sitting for a while at the base of the chimney due to a large group that got ahead of us, but the summit was incredible, and it was a great weekend with friends!
Posted Jul 8, 2008 12:21 pm

Dan WinterSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2005

Dan Winter

VAMPIRE MOSQUITOS FROM HELL! The route itself was interesting and the summit was pretty cool. However my parter and I were literaly eaten alive by more mosquitos than I have ever seen in my life.
Posted May 1, 2008 9:20 pm

lalpinistWindy  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 9, 2007

lalpinist

Forecast was for rain, but it was a gorgeous sunny day. Incredibly windy up top - we ate a lot of dust and had a few pebbles falling down on us as we crossed the ridge. Some snow patches between 6,000 and 6,500, but there was no need for showshoes or crampons. That may change starting tomorrow.
Posted Nov 12, 2007 7:16 pm

KMMPost 58/936!  Sucess!

KMM

Did this one with Tim Hale. A great climb with great gram cracker climbing!!!
Posted Oct 7, 2007 1:48 am

YEMSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006

YEM

Mazama climb. 3FJ is a big pile of crap, but gotta be done if you live near Portland. With the exception of the last pitch, every step moves below you. It was a quick climb with good views of the area.
Posted Aug 20, 2007 6:03 pm

bmwboarder7Winter Climb

bmwboarder7

We tried it in the winter this year. Made it close, but snowshoeing in exhausted us pretty good with a late start. We'll be back to finish it.
Posted Jul 23, 2007 12:33 am

thundercloudSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2002

thundercloud

Fun times.
Posted May 25, 2007 5:29 pm

Matthew HollimanSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2006

Matthew Holliman

With Bob and Rick on a tour of the OR Cascades. This was my favourite peak of the ones I climbed--cruddy rock but interesting scrambling, and some nice views under clear skies. I pulled out a huge handhold while leading the chimney section, which spooked me a bit as we had little pro, and even less confidence that any I'd placed would actually hold.
Posted Dec 1, 2006 3:19 am

Karl HelserGreat climb..  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 14, 2006

Karl Helser

Great climb on what could have been the last nice day of the summer climb season. Six in our group so it was a wait at the summit block. Not enough room for more than a couple. The pics on this page made it look harder than it was. I'll do this one again.
Posted Oct 16, 2006 12:37 pm

Dennis PoulinSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2002

Dennis Poulin

Climbed with a group from Oregon Mountaineering Association. First time I ever rapelled.
Posted Sep 22, 2006 9:58 pm

TurboRoute Climbed: South Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2006

Turbo

Summited this clever peak twice in five days. First, on August 3, and again on August 8. Climbed the south ridge both times. Great climb and a excellent view from the top (of course).
Posted Aug 14, 2006 1:56 am

Bob BurdSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2006

Bob Burd

One of the easier days of our 9 day Cascade tour. Climbed with Matthew and Rick under fine weather conditions. Trip Report
Posted Jul 22, 2006 2:16 pm

cascadetravelerRoute Climbed: south ridge. Date Climbed: july 31st 2004.  Sucess!

cascadetraveler

An awsome little mountain. It is awfully exposed, lots of loose rock. I think the mountain justifies a roped pitch before the crawl and directly after. We did niether. I personally was OK with that. I know others were extremely uncomfortable. I found the rock sound when it needed to be The views are spectacular. It is truly the smallest summit I may ever get to stand on.
Posted Jan 20, 2006 9:36 pm

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