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Three Fingered Jack Climber's Log

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Bob BurdSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2006

Bob Burd

One of the easier days of our 9 day Cascade tour. Climbed with Matthew and Rick under fine weather conditions. Trip Report
Posted Jul 22, 2006 2:16 pm

cascadetravelerRoute Climbed: south ridge. Date Climbed: july 31st 2004.  Sucess!


An awsome little mountain. It is awfully exposed, lots of loose rock. I think the mountain justifies a roped pitch before the crawl and directly after. We did niether. I personally was OK with that. I know others were extremely uncomfortable. I found the rock sound when it needed to be The views are spectacular. It is truly the smallest summit I may ever get to stand on.
Posted Jan 20, 2006 9:36 pm

YetiBauerRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: October 9,2005  Sucess!


A previous day of high snow made the peak seem daunting from below. Brilliant sunshine warmed the rock and dried up the parts we needed to use really sweet. We got to the “crawl” around 1 PM, waited for a mountain guide and his client to clear the route. After that it was all ours! My partners were Nolana Horning and Bob Koca. Although I did not feel the summit pitch worthy of the 5.6 rating, I must say the view off the east face affords much exposure for the uninitiated or seasoned. On another occasion I had scrambled the 4th class “crawl” in low visibility failing to realize the ramifications of a slip. I highly recommend roping up and protecting the “crawl”. A single 50M rope with the second person tied in past the center mark and the third person on the end worked well for us. I did it all with wired stoppers, medium hexes and tri-cams. Do not leave your helmet in the car to save weight! Henry Bauer

Posted Oct 27, 2005 5:09 pm

mandrakeRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2005  Sucess!


Turned out to be a great day for climbing up there -- I was expecting a long hot day, but we lucked out with a cool break in the weather. Lots of exposure to keep you focused, but the climbing was otherwise excellent. Bits immediately pre & post Crawl seemed to be the sketchiest part of the route.
Posted Aug 25, 2005 6:17 pm

DagiTigRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 31, 2004  Sucess!


A beautiful day for climbing! I found the crawl and chimney climb much easier than I anticipated. I found myself sitting for a while at the base of the chimney due to a large group that got ahead of us, but the summit was incredible, and it was a great weekend with friends!
Posted Jun 8, 2005 2:21 pm

cluckRoute Climbed: South ridge Date Climbed: 10/16/2004  Sucess!


Might have gotten the last summit of 2004 last Saturday, 10/16. Nice sunny weather and a bit of wind for most of the climb. Clouds started pouring in late in the afternoon. Couldn't see 3FJ from Smith Rock the next day because of low clouds, but looks like snow level was down to about 5000' or less. So, unless it warms up a bunch and gets sunny soon, anyone headed up that way should expect snow on the route.
Posted Oct 18, 2004 5:21 pm

AndinistalocoRoute Climbed: south ridge (is there another way?) Date Climbed: summer 2002  Sucess!


Some of the best exposure in the state! I was the only one up top on this day , excepting a cloud of mosquitos that followed me for the last mile or so.....

Posted Oct 6, 2004 9:37 pm

dkantolaRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: September 27, 2004  Sucess!


I climbed with Cornvallis on a Monday and saw no one else all day. The rotten scramble before the Crawl is pretty unpleasant. That and the burnt approach hike makes me unlikely to return anytime soon.
Posted Oct 5, 2004 1:18 am

dkantolaRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: August 21, 2004  Sucess!


Waited two hours at the summit pinnacle for a group of 12 Mazamas to clear the route. About eight more people were on their way up as we descended. This is the most exposed summit in the Oregon Cascades. Jefferson probably comes next, followed by Thielsen, North Sister, and Broken Top.
Posted Aug 24, 2004 9:46 pm

e.acarRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July, 18'04  Sucess!
Started at 5:30 am from PCT trailhead with Chemeketans. Got back at 6:30 pm. Other than very little rain and clouds of mosquitos we did not encounter any problems. You may consider taking a Deet shower before hitting this mountain. Exposure along summit pitches was thrilling.
Posted Jul 19, 2004 11:51 pm

PawkalaRoute Climbed: South Route Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!


Started out noonish from the parking lot and set up camp on the saddle. Had about 3 hours to mess around so we hiked up to check out the crawl and then back down for some rappeling off a cliff just NE of the ridge. Had a stormy night and witnessed the most amazing sunrise ever. The strong southwest winds blew clouds over the ridge and dropped them onto the east side right in front of the sun. It looked like inverse fire flamming all around us. Stayed in our sacks for a while hoping the winds would die down but finally got out and going hoping for the best. Awesome climb with plenty of exposure to a viewless top on that day. Roped up for the crawl and the top section. Great experinece.
Posted Jul 2, 2004 12:01 am

M and N DenyerRoute Climbed: South Ridge (sorta) Date Climbed: March 20, 2004  Sucess!

M and N Denyer

See Brian Jenkins' log. Have been wanted to do a winter assault of Three Fingered Jack for several years now.

Did a summer climb of Three Finger Jack with Natasha in the summer of 1997.
Posted Mar 29, 2004 6:37 pm

Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: South Ridge (sorta) Date Climbed: March 20, 2003

Brian Jenkins

My friend Mark and I have talked about doing a winter ascent for a couple years now. Hiked in starting at about 11 pm Friday night by GPS. Road in to PCT trailhead is closed so we parked at the Snow Park and hiked northeasterly to gain the South Ridge instead of trying to follow a PCT that is about 5 feet under snow.

Brutal hike in with a 68 pound pack but that's what you gotta do in winter. :- P Finally stopped somewhat short of our goal about 2 am and set up camp. We figured the next day would be sleep late and scout the route. Morning was beautiful but we realized we still had about 1.7 miles to go to the summit. Late start at almost 11 am but we made the ridge and stashed our packs heading up only with our gear, pro and a Nalgene each. Figured we did not want to re-do this on Sunday and do the brutal hike out the same day so we decided to push it on Saturday.

Ridge was fun and easy and we made our way over to the saddle between the ridge and the main mass of 3FJ. Climbed up easy slopes to the ridge and we could see a bit of the climber's trail in a melted out area. Snow was really mushy but we did 4 pitches up the ridge to the second gendarme staying on the left side on slopes from 25 to maybe 65 degrees, mostly about 45 degrees. Got to the second gendarme and it looked like easier snow slopes around to the left instead of doing the normal route but we hit our 4 pm turnaround time so we headed back just barely short of the summit. This one looks fun and doable in winter but we made the right decision to head back as the wind REALLY whipped up and almost knocked us off the ridge on the way back.

Slept like 11 hours that night and then did the hike out. As usual, it was bacon cheeseburgers and milk shakes at Poppa Al's in Mill City. No Ding Dongs this trip but I did get some Brownie Bites in Detroit to satisfy my crapfood intake.

Posted Mar 21, 2004 10:07 pm

bc44caesarRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: 4 May 2002  Sucess!


Awesome bluebird day with the mountain to ourselves!
Posted Feb 16, 2004 1:11 pm

dkantolaRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 14, 2003  Sucess!


A long day with a large group. The weather was good, although smoke from the Link Fire burning south of Suttle Lake obscured views to the east. The summit, a high point along a knife-edged ridge, is quite an airy perch.
Posted Jul 15, 2003 9:43 pm

cluckRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: October 6 2002  Sucess!


Summitted on a perfect Sunday morning.

For some observations on this climb, check out the trip report.
Posted Oct 8, 2002 7:34 pm

rmjwintersRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 1998  Sucess!


This was interesting. Final summit pitch was fun and interesting. Great weather and climbed with my good friend Scott and his wife.
Posted Oct 5, 2002 9:57 pm

HammerRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: August 3, 2002  Sucess!


After a beautiful day and almost perfect climbing conditions our small party gained the saddle leading to the summit. Unfortunately, a larger group had reached the technical pitch before us and we forced to wait for quite a long time as they shuttled people to the summit and back. After they had retreated we made a fast and furious track to the summit as a large gathering had grown on the saddle awaiting their turns at the summit. Once again TFJ afforded us with spectacular views of Jefferson and Washington. The three Sisters were obscured due to smoke from the many days of fire that had been in the area and you could still see areas that were smoldering.
Posted Aug 6, 2002 2:37 pm

Bob BoltonRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: Summer 1976  Sucess!

Bob Bolton

This was so long ago that I don't remember much about it. A group of us from McMinnville, where I lived at the time, climbed it.
Posted May 20, 2002 8:28 pm

HammerRoute Climbed: South Ridge Route Date Climbed: 8/11/2001  Sucess!


I had looked forward to climbing 3FJ due to it being primarily a rock route. I had only done Mt. Washington in the past and wanted to continue to develop my alpine rock skills.

Originally the climb had been somewhat crowded but by climb day there would only be six of us. This was a good thing since a sizable Mazama group left the trailhead shortly after we did at 0600.

Throughout the morning, we leap frogged their group as we made our way up the 5 miles of PCT. Once we reached the cairn marking the climber's trail we gained a sizable lead on them. As we approached the steeper scree trail we broke right and made our way up thicker underbrush. This was somewhat tedious but it afforded a qucker approach to the the ridge line.

Once we reached the ridge line, a couple that were not sure of the route, decided to tag along behind us as we made our way up the ridge. Toward the top of the ridge, we crossed some great 3rd class trail "Cliffhanger's Trail" that had great exposure before reaching the infamous "Crawl".

Our designated leader led across the "Crawl" and up some additional 3rd and 4th class rock to the base of the pinnacle. The rest of the group prussiked along the fixed line until we reached the base. Once again-some great exposure! We allowed the couple to use our rope as they made their way across also. We had beat the Mazama group up.

Once we reached the base of the pinnacle, Steve led the first pitch up the pinnacle. We all followed up climbing with a prussik safety as he made his way up to the true summit. I was the last one to climb up and being the sixth person up there, there was not room for me on the small knife edge summit. I took a picture for them and then swapped places with my uncle so he could get a shot of me and my celebratory prayer flags.

We descended the pinnacle passing the Mazama group at the base and made our way down the ridge. We reached the scree trail. As we headed down, I enjoyed some great scree skiing. The dust was thick and it was hot! I had brought three liters of water and it was not enough. Others had only brought two and they were in bad shape. After sharing the water that we had, we made our way out to the trailhead for yet another successful climb for the year.

Posted Oct 11, 2001 11:26 pm

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