Three Fingered Jack Climber's Log
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|rick6003||a late report |
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2012
|A late report for sure, |
My first time up TFJ was I made it to the Crawl and stopped there. I had went by myself, I had gotten to the trail head early so thought I might walk in and try out those space blankets since it was so warm out. first mistake was to dig out the nice warm sand besides a large rock. By about 4 am I was getting cold. I'm a restless sleeper and had punched some good sized holes in my space blanket bag.
Next attempt. We had a very foggy day, I was the only one who had been on this mountain before so was leading the way. Very cool to see it all from this perspective. the last time was a perfect sunshine day.
We roped up across the Crawl and Top roped the Summit. By this time it was getting pretty darn cold and windy. One the way back, one of us had a very hard time with the exposure. I was beginning to think we were going to have a hard time getting back down but we eventually got down to safety. Perhaps the fog helped us, they really had no idea of the exposure on this mountain, you could only see about a hundred feet or so.
I've done the standard climbs on most all of the Oregon Cascade mountains, none are as exposed as this one I believe.
|Posted Feb 22, 2014 11:49 am|
|cjwhat||12 hour day |
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2013
|Left car at 7, returned at 7. Got off route to north on way up. Don't recommend those sketchy talus slopes. Gonna say it; crawl wasn't as scary as I've heard. David's first time with 'real' roped climbing. It was an excellent day hike.|
|Posted Dec 24, 2013 6:00 pm|
|triyoda||Mad Exposure |
Date Climbed: Oct 19, 2013
|Yeah, the crawl is pretty exposed, as is a lot of the ridge. The final chimney not so much. Nice summit.|
|Posted Oct 23, 2013 12:34 am|
|calebEOC||Big exposure |
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2013
|Without a doubt the most exposed bit of climbing I have experienced here in Oregon. The catwalk bit reminded me of Broken Top, and the crawl didn't look too bad initially. However you're really hanging it all out there that last 15 feet of the crawl. I was happy we took the time to set a fixed line. The last 20 feet on the summit block was also more exposure than I initially expected. Anyway, happy to have this one completed here in my 7th full year of hiking and climbing.|
|Posted Sep 8, 2013 11:25 pm|
|bedellympian||choss pile |
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2013
|Easy but loose... worst I've seen yet in Oregon, land of choss piles.|
|Posted Aug 22, 2013 1:08 am|
|Nick Turtura||Three Words |
Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2012
Holy crap that was awesome! It wasn't too technical but every step had wild possibilities of plummeting to your death. It was great. The crawl wasn't bad and the chimney was cake. We had perfect weather and sat on top ogling the Cascade line. Definitely one of my favorites yet.
|Posted Sep 22, 2012 11:10 pm|
|brucelacroix||standard route |
Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2011
|Ok route. Good day climb.|
|Posted Sep 13, 2011 10:55 am|
|SKI||Trembling what? |
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011
|Solo moves on a gigantic chosspile.|
|Posted Sep 6, 2011 10:44 pm|
|Back in high school I climbed Jack with buddies from Explorer Post 999. The fella with the rope was way out ahead. I remembering scrambling through the Crawl thinking "this sorta feels like where a person should rope up..."|
|Posted Jan 9, 2011 11:27 pm|
|iquest4it||He's Got the Jack |
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2009
|This was one of the funnest climbs in all the Cascades. We came in from one of the backside lakes on the west side, so we didn't see a soul all weekend. The summit pitch is a blast, and actually easier than it looks to lead, or should I say the rock is more solid than it looks. I want to come back and do this in the winter when it's iced up.|
|Posted Dec 25, 2010 5:38 am|
|Karl Helser||Second time... |
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2010
|Dian and I had a great day climbing 3FJ. Still a lot of snow from about 5200' and on the south ridge to just below the summit block. We jumped off the PCT and took the south ridge from the beginning...good thing, from above we could see that the pct from the bottom of the scree was still deep snow. The crawl and the summit block are snow free. The weather was perfect. Only a few other climbers...including a dude that we helped to the summit so he could release his buddy's ashes. The ashes were of a guy by the name of Norman Lee, a very well known member of The Obsidian's...an alpine climbing group. I guess he'd spent a lot of time on 3FJ. What a cool place to rest.|
|Posted Jul 19, 2010 4:10 pm|
|millsb40||South Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010
|The rock on this 3FJ is probably the best of any volcano in Oregon, I was pleasantly surprised. That being said, it's still poor rock for climbing. I personally wouldn't solo this Mountain. The rock is not so technical, but if a hold or holds failed (which seems likely) there is a real possibility of a fatal fall.|
A friend of mine witnessed a woman fall to her death from the crawl in the 1970's.
We used a fixed pin, a couple slings, and a stuck tri-cam on the crawl. And a couple medium to large hexes for protection up the chimney (only placed 2).
Left at trailhead at about 6 am, on top about 10:45. Dinked around a little, out to the car at 2:30 pm.
|Posted Jul 16, 2010 12:02 pm|
|Snowslogger||Oregon Chosscades |
Date Climbed: Oct 30, 1993
|Another one of the classic Oregon "chosscades", although better than some. A good day with a full moon, and almost Halloween.|
|Posted Dec 28, 2009 12:46 am|
|alpinedon||Fun Climb |
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2004
|Had a fun, successful trip with the Obsidians, camped out at the trailhead, headed out early, made quick work of the traverse and the summit block. Smallest summit I have seen yet on a mountain.|
|Posted Nov 23, 2009 12:49 am|
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2009
|Shirley, Blondie (though she sat it out just above the saddle) & I had a good day out on Oregon volcanic granite. It's been 7(??) years since we've done it's neighbor Mt. Washington.|
|Posted Aug 23, 2009 7:18 pm|
|JGHarrison||South ridge |
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
|Good weather, went up in the mid-morning. An Outward Bound team was on the mountain and graciously allowed me to use their ropes, making a sketchy solo into a super-safe weekend outing...my girlfriend will be pleased. |
I would be careful soloing this one, def at least take a rope to rap the summit bloc. very bad rock, high exposure, much better to have a partner
|Posted Aug 9, 2009 9:16 pm|
|Pallando||Route Climbed: South Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009
|Fourth of July, but the only climbers on the whole mountain! I expected to share it with at least another group.|
Hiked out from Carl Lake to my car at 4:00 a.m. to meet my group at 7:00 at the trailhead. The night before I hiked the five miles in to Carl Lake to deliver food to some camping buddies. I hadn't known that they had camped so far in, otherwise I wouldn't have done the 5 miles in and out the morning before I climbed Jack...
I showed up a little late because of an alarm that didn't go off at 3:00 when it was supposed to. Hike in pushed me pretty hard, and I didn't bring enough water (I only had one full nalgene after my morning hike). I borrowed water and melted snow.
I was the only one who had read enough about the route to know what we were doing. Only spotted one pin at the crawl, never saw the other one. We brought rope but no one felt the need to protect the Crawl. The rock was a lot nicer than I expected.
We had no trad gear, but the climb was simple enough for my friend to climb up and top rope the rest of us. I had just gone off belay and was just thinking about how the rock was much nicer than any reports I had read when I grabbed a chickenhead that picked off the rock like a cherry. A definite shock, but it was the only hold that didn't stay put on the mountain. Scramble to the summit was not just a little bit exposed; I truly got shaken up a little bit a couple times. Our friend top roped the scramble again. Only two of us went to the actual summit, everyone else stopped short right before the spine (about a foot lower than the true summit). Would NOT want to be up here on a windy day! Extreme exposure on at least two sides.
Rapped off the top. Downclimbing the Crawl was a bit closer to nerve racking, but no one asked for it to be protected. In hindsight, one of my friends should have asked for a belay, he was visibly shaken a bit.
The hike out killed me. I consider myself in fairly good shape, but as I was putting in my 20th mile of the day, I was slowing down significantly.
Made it out, went to a friend's house on Blue Lake and jumped in. Fireworks in Bend tonight, and hopefully beer. Church in the morning.
|Posted Jul 4, 2009 10:17 pm|
|patmay81||A little help from my (new) friends |
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009
|Got up the ridge, great hike. I was very fortunate to run into a party, since my route finding abilities and partners confidence were not up to parr with this mountain. I really owe them a huge thanks, If any of you are reading this I owe you a beer and a belay any time you want/need one in the Portland or Eugene area.|
It was a really fun climb, I particularly liked the quality of the 5th class pitches and the exposure on the 4th class ridge line. A lot better climb than any one leads on to believe.
We climbed through the clouds, so I can't comment on any potential views from the summit, but the views from the ridge were pretty impressive (hoodoo to black butte).
|Posted Jun 28, 2009 7:04 pm|
|oregonmtnman||South Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2004
|Made summit with Chemeketans out of Salem, Oregon. Scary mountain with big exposure. Horrible rock.Would not want to climb it again.|
|Posted Dec 11, 2008 12:18 am|
|Fred Spicker||South Ridge |
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2008
|Climbed with Moni. Great weather - crappy rock.|
|Posted Sep 15, 2008 8:09 am|