OverviewThrill Is Gone is probably the most popular mixed climb in Hyalite. Arguably the best depending on it's conditions, along with Matrix. It's moderate rating (M4 WI4) and short approach attracts many parties to the route. Since conditions and amount of ice vary almost weekly the experience on route will depend on the amount of ice. In most cases less ice will make the ascent more difficult. However, this climb protects well with nuts and cams, as well as screws when ice is thick enough.
Getting ThereFrom the parking lot take the Hyalite Creek trail up the canyon and turn off right in the first area of clearing, after about 5 minutes of hiking. Cross the creek and hike up the trail up to the base of the wall. Approach takes about thirty to forty five minutes depending on conditions of the trail and physical fitness of your party. If you need to break trail bring snow shoes and expect a much longer approach.
Route DescriptionThe route is a left facing chimney corner, just to the left from Bingo World Cave.
Climbing and protection opportunities will vary depending on how much ice is present- it is a mixed line. But generally if ice is in thin there will be good protection opportunities in the back of the chimney- nuts and cams.
Climb inside of the chimney using every technique that seems appropriate. Edge on the wall, stem on ice and use your hands to mantle or hand jam if it makes sense. About 30M of great climbing will take you to the top of the chimney, from which make your way to the tree with rap slings. Belay from here.
Communication can be a problem here. In my opinion, it is better to belay the follower from here and avoid being lowered to the ground. I could not hear my second, and she could not hear me neither. There was at least one big accident here due to communication issues which happened to a well known alpinist: http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/2010/03/09/accident-story/
Essential GearPitch is 35M long and using two 50 or 60M ropes to get down is a good idea.
A set of small to medium cams and a set of nuts should be sufficient for rock pro. And ice screws (including 10 and 13cm) will depend on how much ice there is, and how thick is it.
During my ascent I used 5-6 screws, several nuts, and about 4 cams (largest cam I used was #1 BD Camalot).