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Through Galerie Cubryńskie
Route

Through Galerie Cubryńskie

 
Through Galerie Cubryńskie

Page Type: Route

Location: Poland/Slovakia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 49.12300°N / 20.03200°E

Object Title: Through Galerie Cubryńskie

Route Type: most of rout - walk-up, on the end easy rock climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: UIAA I

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: dynercia

Created/Edited: Nov 7, 2005 / Nov 9, 2005

Object ID: 167458

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Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Approach


The usually start point for this trip is Morskie Oko Hut (1406). How to get to Morskie Oko see the main page of Cubryna.

Route Description



This rout is the one of easiest way on The Cubryna, used by climbers as a descend way. Remember, that it is non-marked rout and if you are not a member of a climbing club, you need a authorized Tatra guide (see red tape on the main page). In winter you can’t go “legally” this rout without guide too, but no one ask you about permission.
Attantion: in winter this way is very danger because of avalanches

Time:
Morskie Oko – Dolina za Mnichem 1 h 15 min walk up
Dolina za Mnichem – Hinczowa Pass 2 h 15 min UIAA 0+
Hinczowa Pass – Cubryna 15 min UIAA I (in my opinion as regards a big exposure, but most of book guides value this part as 0+)
Total time about 3 h 45min

From Morskie Oko take the yellow marked trial to Dolina za Mnichem and next follow red marks on Wrota Chalubinskiego - about 50m. On your left hand you’ll see a good treaded, narrow path leading to the upper part of Dolina za Mnichem.

Follow this path to a terrace (Mnichowe Plecy) from which grows a characteristic cone of Mnich, well seen during almost the whole rout. When you have Mnich exactly on your left hand, turn right and follow after cairns to a big, scree terrace at the foot of Cubryna – Zadnia Galeria Cubrynska. Now, on your left hand you can see the end of a deep and steep couloir –Zleb pod Mnichem (pic 1).

When you pass Zleb pod Mnichem turn left (east) and still following cairns decrease on a next, not so much large than previous, terrace – Mala Galeria Cubrynska (pic 1).

Cross Mala Galeria Cubrynska in the south-east direction and climb by a scree-rocky chute (still in the south-east direction) on the north-west side of next, the biggest, terrace at the foot of Cubryna – Wielka Galeria Cubrynska (pic 1).

Now, walk up to a steep couloir, which goes from clearly seen Hinczowa Pass (the bottom usually filled with an old snow for the almost whole summer) (pic 1).Take the left side of the couloir.

On the pass turn right (north-east) and follow a distinct path by the right side of the Cubryna’ south-east ridge. When you pass the first crag of the ridge cross it and climb down to a shallow chute and traverse it on the next rib. From this place come back on the main ridge and follow it by a few crags (in a big exposure) to the summit.


Essential Gear



in summer: normal hiking gear, for not good climbers rope and a few loops can be useful. When there is a snow in a couloir going on Hińczowa crampons or axe is useful (this couloir is good seen from Morskie Oko).
in winter: crampons, ice axe, rope, a few ice screws and loops


Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Cubryna seen from a step of...Rout through Galerie...Mnich from the yellow-marked...from left: Nizne Rysy, Rysy...Opalony Wierch (left) and...Zadni Mnich from Mnichowe...