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Through Galerie Cubrynskie

 
Through Galerie Cubrynskie

Page Type: Route

Location: Poland/Slovakia, Europe

Object Title: Through Galerie Cubrynskie

Route Type: easy rock climbing

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: UIAA I

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: dynercia

Created/Edited: Oct 26, 2005 / Nov 7, 2005

Object ID: 167280

Hits: 1700 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


The usually start point for this trip is Morskie Oko Hut (1406) situated in the highest part of Rybiego Potoku Valley. The hut is easily accessible by red marked route leading from Polana Palenica (here you can get by bus from Zakopane). The view from hut’s window is really worthly of see.
If you are by you own car you should leave it on a parking-place on Palenica or on the another and much cheaper park on the Slovak side (100m on right after border crossing point in Lysa Polana).

Route Description


This rout is the one of easiest way on The Mięguszowiecki Szczyt, used by climbers as a descend way. Remember, that it is non-marked rout and if you are not a member of a climbing club, you need a authorized Tatra guide (see red tape on the main page). In winter you can’t go “legally” this rout without guide too, but no one ask you about permission.
Attantion: in winter way is danger because of avalanches

Time:
Morskie Oko – Dolina za Mnichem 1 h 15 min walk up
Dolina za Mnichem – Hinczowa Pass 2 h 15 min UIAA 0+
Hinczowa Pass – Mieguszowiecki Szczyt 1 h 15 min UIAA I
Total time about 5 h

From Morskie Oko take the yellow marked trial to Dolina za Mnichem and next follow red marks on Wrota Chalubinskiego - about 50m. On your left hand you’ll see a good treaded, narrow path leading to the upper part of Dolina za Mnichem (map).

Follow this path to a terrace (Mnichowe Plecy) from which grows a characteristic cone of Mnich, well seen during almost the whole rout. When you have Mnich exactly on your left hand, turn right and follow after cairns to a big, scree terrace at the foot of Cubryna – Zadnia Galeria Cubrynska. Now, on your left hand you can see the end of a deep and steep couloir –Zleb pod Mnichem (pic 1).

When you pass Zleb pod Mnichem turn left (east) and still following cairns decrease on a next, not so much large than previous, terrace – Mala Galeria Cubrynska (pic 1).

Cross Mala Galeria Cubrynska in the south-east direction and climb by a scree-rocky chute (still in the south-east direction) on the north-west side of next, the biggest, terrace at the foot of Cubryna – Wielka Galeria Cubrynska (pic 1).

Now, walk up to a steep couloir, which goes from clearly seen Hinczowa Pass (the bottom usually filled with an old snow for the almost whole summer) (pic 1).Take the left side of the couloir.

On Hinczowa Pass turn left and follow after a good seen path by the right (south) side of the west Mieguszowiecki Szczyt’s ridge to a first lateral rib. Behind the rib come back on the main ridge (pic 2). Follow up the ridge to the summit.

Essential Gear


in summer: normal hiking gear, for not good climbers rope and a few loops can be useful
in winter: crampons, ice axe, rope, a few ice screws and loops

First climbers


Ludwik Chałubiński with guides: Wojciech Roj and Maciej Sieczka 28.VI.1877.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Mnich and Cubryna seen from...Map of rout Through Galerie...Cubryna and Mieguszowiecki...