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Via Galerie Cubryńskie

Via Galerie Cubryńskie

Via Galerie Cubryńskie

Page Type: Route

Location: Poland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 49.18772°N / 20.05522°E

Object Title: Via Galerie Cubryńskie

Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: YDS Class 3-4

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: dynercia, yatsek

Created/Edited: Oct 26, 2005 / Oct 21, 2016

Object ID: 167280

Hits: 2229 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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This route leads from Morskie Oko, via Dolina za Mnichem (literally the Valley beyond the Monk) at about 1800m to Hińczowa/Hincovo Pass at 2323m. From Dolina za Mnichem the route is not marked with paint but has little cairns.

The first half of the route is used as an approach route by most of the rock climbers who climb Mnich. The whole route is part of the descent/easy ascent of Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki/Veľký Mengusovský štít or Cubryna/Čubrina.

Route Profile

Time up: 
Map of rout Through Galerie...

Morskie Oko Hut to Dolina za Mnichem 1hr 
Dolina za Mnichem to Hińczowa Pass 2.33hrs
Total time up: about 3.33hrs

Net elevation gain: 913m
Total elevation gain: approx. 1,000m
Rock difficulty: Polish grade 0+ / YDS class 3-easy 4
Crumbly last stretch (the couloir)

When to Climb

Hincova pass and view on Morskie Oko
 25 October 2009

The best time to do this route is when there is no snow in the Hińczowy Couloir which drops from Hińczowa/Hincovo Pass. Such conditions are the most likely from August to September. Snow tends to linger on Mała Galeria Cubryńska as well as in the couloir, and the route can be impassable/too dangerous without an ice axe and crampons in early July and sometimes later too.

In winter and spring the route - especially Mała Galeria - is extremely dangerous because of avalanches. The steep passage between Mała Galeria and Wielka Galeria is also very dangerous, so it is not advisable to do this route in those seasons.

Route Description

To find out how to get to Morskie Oko, please see the parent page.

Morskie Oko
Nearing Dolina za Mnichem, Morskie Oko on the left - photo by Konrad Sus 

MSW at sundown
Looking towards Hińczowa/Hincovo Pass (centre) from the yellow trail 

From the hut take the yellow trail that leads, above the western shore of the beautiful tarn, to Szpiglasowa Pass. In less than an hour you will be at the mouth of Dolina za Mnichem, where you turn left to follow the red marks (which lead to the pass called Wrota Chałubińskiego, i.e. Chałubiński's Gate), but only for several metres.

Cubryna seen from a step of...

Szpiglasowa Grań from E
Looking across Dolina za Mnichem from the path to Mnichowe Plecy 

Now on your left begins an unmarked path (not very clear at the very start) that heads for the south foot of Mnich. Follow this path to a kind of terrace called Mnichowe Plecy (Monk's Back), owing to its location behind Mnich.

Mnich’s W face
Mnich from the path to Mnichowe Plecy 

When you are on Mnichowe Plecy, turn right and walk in the direction opposite to Mnich, i.e. to the south, towards the knoll of Mnichowa Kopa and impressive Zadni Mnich (Rear Monk).

Towards Mnichowa Kopa
Mnichowa Kopa (the knoll on the left) and Zadni Mnich (the crag right of centre) 

Having traversed the summit of Mnichowa Kopa on the left, you get a spectacular view of the northeast face of Zadni Mnich.

Beyond Mnichowa Kopa
Beyond Mnichowa Kopa 

Then the path skirts the upper end of Żleb pod Mnichem (Couloir under the Monk) to sharply descend 80m (YDS class 3-4, some exposure) onto a slanting terrace below and above the cliffs of Cubryna,

Mnich from S
At the top of Żleb pod Mnichem 

known as Mała Galeria Cubryńska (Cubryna's Little Gallery).

Mała Galeria Cubryńska
 Mała Galeria Cubryńska

From here you have an excellent view of the southeast face of Mnich.

Mnich s SE face
Mnich's SE face

The path traverses the gallery and at its other end enters a little, oblique chute. Walk up the chute for a few metres to soon traverse left towards the exposed edge of this passage, where the path shows again. The path will take you up to a vast gallery, much bigger than Mała Galeria Cubryńska, not surprisingly named Wielka (Great) Galeria Cubryńska.

Wielka Galeria Cubryńska
Cubryna's NE wall seen from Wielka Galeria Cubryńska

Traverse the Great Gallery, following cairns, towards the outlet of the great couloir (Hińczowy Żleb) that drops from the pass between the massifs of Cubryna and Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki, i.e. Hińczowa Przełęcz/Hincovo sedlo.

MSW’s NW face
Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki's NW face

Cross the outlet of the couloir and keep on following cairns, ascending the left-hand (eastern) side of the crumbly couloir most of the way (lots of scree) and finally via its bottom.

Ascend E side of couloir
Just above Wielka Galeria Cubryńska

Halfway up Hińczowy Żleb
Halfway up

Hińczowy Żleb from its top
The couloir seen from the pass

Hińczowa Przełęcz/Hincovo sedlo offers a picturesque view of the tarns to its south, i.e. Hincove plesá.

Hincove plesá
South from the pass

From the pass you can reach the summit of Cubryna/Čubrina (2376m) in about 20 minutes and Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki/Veľký Mengusovský štít (2438m) in 1-1.5hrs.

Velky Mengusovsky stit
Seen from S: Cubryna (left) and Mięguszowiecki (right) - photo by horrste

Essential Gear

Summer conditions: Normal hiking gear should suffice as long as there isn't much snow in the couloir, which can be filled with old snow throughout the summer.

Cubryna peak from Lysa Polana
Seen from Łysa Polana - photo by Tomek Lodowy

Winter conditions (according to dynercia, yatsek would avoid the route in winter): crampons, ice axe, rope, a few ice screws and loops.

Red Tape & Mountain Conditions

Please see the parent page.

External Links

Photo TR by R. Szadkowski, Tatra guide. The party chose our route for the first part of their ascent of Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki/Veľký Mengusovský štit.