A very interesting and pleasant route on excellent “gabbro”, a kind of rock similar to the gneiss, is running on Punta Roma shady West Face. Punta Roma is a massive peak on Italy-France border in Monte Viso Group, lying to the south of the nearby Punta Udine, from which Punta Roma is joined by a long and notched ridge. Another fine easier route on the same face is “Trois Rivieres”. Punta Roma West face can be reached both from Italian and from French side. It’s a cold “milieu”, as a matter of fact the wall gets the sun at 11 o’clock at the height of summer.
ITALIAN SIDE: From Torino to Saluzzo, then follow Po Valley reaching Paesana, Crissolo and Pian del Re, where the road ends.
FRENCH SIDE: From Guillestre follow D902 towards Queyras – otherwise you can approach from Briancon via the Izoard Col - reaching Chateau Queyras, Abries and Ristolas; from Ristolas take an unsurfaced road leading to Roche Ecroulèe parking m. 1787. The acces by car is not allowed after Roche Ecroulèe.
GIACOLETTI HUT - From Pian del Re m. 2020 follow the path to Quintino Sella Hut (V13 and GTA), reaching Fiorenza Lake. After the lake, at 2310 m., leave this path and follow towards right the path to Giacoletti Hut (V14), reaching a new lake, named Chiaretto Lake. After gaining Viso Pass m. 2650 – a spectacular view over Viso Great Lake – the path leads to the hut (2 hours and a half from Pian del Re).
VISO HUT - From Roche Ecroulèe follow by walk the road to Belvedere du Viso m. 2133. From here follow the path rising towards East until a forking at 2437 mt., where you must turn to right following a mainly level path towards the well evident hut (2 hours and 45 minutes from Roche Ecroulèe).
Ti'Punch reportTi'Punch report (French Scale)
Summit altitude: m. 3070
Difficulty: TD inf., F6a max
Climbing length: 300 mt.
First ascent: Richard Clermont – Sylvain Pusnel 1996
Starting point: Pian del Re (Italy) m. 2020 (parking) or Rocheè Ecroulèe (France) m. 1787 (parking).
Approach from Viso Hut - Don’t take the path heading towards SSE to Valant Col, but follow a less obvious track heading to East as far as Porcieroles Lake.
From the lake don’t carry on towards Porco Gully, but turn to right rising along slabs and stones heading to the obvious high serrated W face of Punta Roma. Starting point is on the left-hand side of the face; last route on the left is “Trois Rivieres”. Ti’ Punch start about 60 mt. on the right of “Trois Rivieres” and on the left of a great steep black zone, rising along some easy steps just below a white quartz intrusion.
Approach from Giacoletti Hut - Follow Porc Gully (Couloir del Porco) and via ferrata, reaching the pass. Go down to Porcieroles Lake. From here follow the previous approach.
L1 – Little steps and walls towards the white quartz intrusion, then a corners’ line ligthly slanting towards right; a steeper shallow corner – crux move – leads to a belay. 4c, then 6a
L2 - Climb a corner, then leave it and climb towards right a fine slab with cracks. 5b
L3 - Easier rocks and some slabs lead to a steep wall. Climb it with fine movements. 6a
L4 – A short pillar (short 5c “bloc”), then a smooth little overhang; slantways towards right climb some slabs with thin cracks becoming steeper in upper section. Belay below an orange corner. 5c, then 4b and 5b.
L5 - Climb the corner’s right face, then some slabs and little walls slantways towards right. 5b
L6 - A short wall, then a steep slab with a crack. Climb the crack on the right-hand side of the pillar’s edge, then a steep wall. 5c+
L7 – A short steep chimney-crack leads to some steps and to a belay below summital ridge. 4c, then 3a.
L8 – Along the summital ridge towards left to reach Italian summit (Summit Book and Mary’s statue) 3a.
Descent to Italian side: along SE Italian Normal Route (2b) to Giacoletti Hut.
Descent to French side: from Italian summit get back along the summit ridge to last belay. From here rappel the route.
Essential GearRope 2 x 50, helmet, nuts 3-9, friends 1-3, ten quickdraws
Red TapeThere are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.
HutsItalian side: Rifugio Giacoletti CAI (Italian Alpine Club - Barge) m. 2741, guardian Andrea Sorbino, open from 15-6 to 15-9
French side: Refuge du Viso CAF (French Alpine Club - Briancon) m. 2460, guardian J. Bellier-Fouchard, open from 15-6 to 15-9
REFUGE DU VISO
When to climbBest months are July, August and September.
Monte Viso countries
MeteoMETEO REGIONE PIEMONTE
Guidebooks and maps
"Escalade en Queyras" by Sylvain Pusnel and Guillaume Vallot "Monte Viso - Alpi Cozie Meridionali" by Michelangelo Romano - Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI