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Ti' Punch

 
Ti\' Punch

Page Type: Route

Location: Queyras/Piemonte, France/Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.68959°N / 7.07511°E

Object Title: Ti' Punch

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: TD inf., UIAA VI

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Jul 14, 2011 / Feb 18, 2014

Object ID: 728711

Hits: 1826 

Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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Overview

Ti' Punch


A very interesting and pleasant route on excellent “gabbro”, a kind of rock similar to the gneiss, is running on Punta Roma shady West Face. Punta Roma is a massive peak on Italy-France border in Monte Viso Group, lying to the south of the nearby Punta Udine, from which Punta Roma is joined by a long and notched ridge. Another fine easier route on the same face is “Trois Rivieres”. Punta Roma West face can be reached both from Italian and from French side. It’s a cold “milieu”, as a matter of fact the wall gets the sun at 11 o’clock at the height of summer.





 
Punta Roma West Face
Punta Roma West face
 
A rest for admiring the King of Stone
Monviso seen from the path to Refuge du Viso

Getting There

 
Punta Roma - Porcieroles Lake
Porcieroles Lake

 
Monte Viso West face at sunset
Monviso West face at sunset seen from Refuge du Viso




Road access



ITALIAN SIDE: From Torino to Saluzzo, then follow Po Valley reaching Paesana, Crissolo and Pian del Re, where the road ends.

FRENCH SIDE: From Guillestre follow D902 towards Queyras – otherwise you can approach from Briancon via the Izoard Col - reaching Chateau Queyras, Abries and Ristolas; from Ristolas take an unsurfaced road leading to Roche Ecroulèe parking m. 1787. The acces by car is not allowed after Roche Ecroulèe.





Huts approach



GIACOLETTI HUT - From Pian del Re m. 2020 follow the path to Quintino Sella Hut (V13 and GTA), reaching Fiorenza Lake. After the lake, at 2310 m., leave this path and follow towards right the path to Giacoletti Hut (V14), reaching a new lake, named Chiaretto Lake. After gaining Viso Pass m. 2650 – a spectacular view over Viso Great Lake – the path leads to the hut (2 hours and a half from Pian del Re).


VISO HUT - From Roche Ecroulèe follow by walk the road to Belvedere du Viso m. 2133. From here follow the path rising towards East until a forking at 2437 mt., where you must turn to right following a mainly level path towards the well evident hut (2 hours and 45 minutes from Roche Ecroulèe).

Ti'Punch report

Ti'Punch report (French Scale)

Summit altitude: m. 3070
Difficulty: TD inf., F6a max
Equipment: bolts
Climbing length: 300 mt.
Exposure: W
First ascent: Richard Clermont – Sylvain Pusnel 1996
Starting point: Pian del Re (Italy) m. 2020 (parking) or Rocheè Ecroulèe (France) m. 1787 (parking).

Punta Roma - Ti  Punch topo
Ti' Punch topo route



Approach from Viso Hut - Don’t take the path heading towards SSE to Valant Col, but follow a less obvious track heading to East as far as Porcieroles Lake.
From the lake don’t carry on towards Porco Gully, but turn to right rising along slabs and stones heading to the obvious high serrated W face of Punta Roma. Starting point is on the left-hand side of the face; last route on the left is “Trois Rivieres”. Ti’ Punch start about 60 mt. on the right of “Trois Rivieres” and on the left of a great steep black zone, rising along some easy steps just below a white quartz intrusion.


Approach from Giacoletti Hut - Follow Porc Gully (Couloir del Porco) and via ferrata, reaching the pass. Go down to Porcieroles Lake. From here follow the previous approach.


A little wall on the route
A little wall on the route
Ti' Punch lower pitches
Ti' Punch lower pitches
Punta Roma summit
Punta Roma summit




L1 – Little steps and walls towards the white quartz intrusion, then a corners’ line ligthly slanting towards right; a steeper shallow corner – crux move – leads to a belay. 4c, then 6a
L2 - Climb a corner, then leave it and climb towards right a fine slab with cracks. 5b
L3 - Easier rocks and some slabs lead to a steep wall. Climb it with fine movements. 6a
L4 – A short pillar (short 5c “bloc”), then a smooth little overhang; slantways towards right climb some slabs with thin cracks becoming steeper in upper section. Belay below an orange corner. 5c, then 4b and 5b.
L5 - Climb the corner’s right face, then some slabs and little walls slantways towards right. 5b
L6 - A short wall, then a steep slab with a crack. Climb the crack on the right-hand side of the pillar’s edge, then a steep wall. 5c+
L7 – A short steep chimney-crack leads to some steps and to a belay below summital ridge. 4c, then 3a.
L8 – Along the summital ridge towards left to reach Italian summit (Summit Book and Mary’s statue) 3a.

Descent to Italian side: along SE Italian Normal Route (2b) to Giacoletti Hut.

Descent to French side: from Italian summit get back along the summit ridge to last belay. From here rappel the route.

Ti' Punch, going out to the summit ridge
Ti' Punch, going out to the summit ridge
Summit view over Monviso
Summit view over Monviso



Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 50, helmet, nuts 3-9, friends 1-3, ten quickdraws

Red Tape

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Huts

Italian side: Rifugio Giacoletti CAI (Italian Alpine Club - Barge) m. 2741, guardian Andrea Sorbino, open from 15-6 to 15-9

RIFUGIO GIACOLETTI

French side: Refuge du Viso CAF (French Alpine Club - Briancon) m. 2460, guardian J. Bellier-Fouchard, open from 15-6 to 15-9
REFUGE DU VISO


Refuge du Viso and Monviso in the background
Refuge du Viso and Monviso in the background
Rifugio Giacoletti
Rifugio Giacoletti

When to climb

Best months are July, August and September.

Monte Viso countries

 
Chateau en Queyras
 
 
Queyras  sun-dial
Queyras sun-dial

Meteo

METEO REGIONE PIEMONTE

METEO FRANCE

METEO ALPI

Guidebooks and maps

 
Punta Roma map
Punta Roma map



 
Escalade en Queyras entre France et Italie
 
 
Monte Viso Alpi Cozie Meridionali
 


"Escalade en Queyras" by Sylvain Pusnel and Guillaume Vallot "Monte Viso - Alpi Cozie Meridionali" by Michelangelo Romano - Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI

Images