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Tizi Ougane Normal

Tizi Ougane Normal

Tizi Ougane Normal

Page Type: Route

Location: High Atlas, Morocco, Africa

Object Title: Tizi Ougane Normal

Route Type: Basic Snow Climb / Scramble

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: F

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: Diego Sahagún

Created/Edited: Jun 22, 2002 / Feb 18, 2009

Object ID: 156598

Hits: 3186 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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See "Jebel Toubkal" > "Normal Route / Ikhibi Sud" > "Approach" to get to the base of the climb, refuge Neltner.

Route Description

Walk along the valley reaching a flat not far from the hut. Continue in the bed though narrows, surround on the left side some large rock islands on the foot of Bou Ouzzal. Then climb a slope (20º) towards Tizi (col) Ougane (3,750 m). Turn right and climb (30 m distance from the crest) to a nick behind a trident gendarme. Follow the ridge directly towards another projection. Move right and traverse into a short gully wich is climbed with a side rib back to ridge. Follow the ridge and soon move to right to finish on a scree head. Straightahead lead on to the large roof on left side of the ridge. Plod up to join crest at the apparent summit wich is a forepeak. Descend W and reascend across a small gap to reach the top of Ras.

To continue to Timesguida, descend into gap and traverse horizontally below forepeak to a little col (3,968 m). Ascend the other side keeping someone right to a broad ridge hump and move left along it to cairn. 15-20' from Ras.

If you want to ascend first Timesguida, walk along a bast scree or snow roof from Ras' E ridge near its scree head at base of roof, to the col (3,968 m), then as said.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and possibly crampons.


Jbel Toubkal from Timesguida n\'OuanoukrimTimesguida from Ras n\'OuanoukrimIn the foreground (from left...Solo near Timesguida summit I...Mizane valley from the summit...Ras n ouanoukrim and Timesguida