Cordillera Blanca - RANGE > Tocllaraju > Climber's LogTocllaraju Climber's Log
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| tb00957 | northwest ridge  Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2012 | |
| Fun climb. Snow was compact but not icy. Perfect. | ||
| Posted Aug 10, 2012 5:09 pm | ||
| AlbertoRampini | North West Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2002 | |
| A dream! | |
| Posted Mar 12, 2012 5:46 pm | ||
| andret | NW Ridge Again Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2011 | |
| Climbed it again to give a previously sick member of our party a shot. Made it to the top, but it was socked in. | |
| Posted Aug 13, 2011 8:50 am | ||
| andret | NW Ridge Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2011 | |
| Beautiful weather! | |
| Posted Aug 13, 2011 8:49 am | ||
| bighornmonkey | short summit day Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2011 | |
| Fun and short route done in perfect weather and perfect snow conditions. 4.5hrs up from our camp in the moraine. I would rate it PD+/AD- but certainly not D. Less than 24hrs from trailhead to summit. | |
| Posted Jul 15, 2011 10:19 pm | ||
| rgg | North west ridge Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2011 | |
| The hardest part of the route was gaining the NW-ridge from the glacier, which we did at around 5500-5600m or so. To get over a bergschrund blocking the way, a short, 5 to 10m, bit of 70-degrees snow climbing was required. Shortly thereafter was a much longer section of 50 to 60 degrees (two pitches required). Finally, just before the summit ridge was another section of two pitches up to 60 degrees. Fortunately, the snow was strong and in excellent condition, and climbing was pure fun! In this condition, I would rate the route AD, or AD+, but no D. However, the very next day, there was a fresh bit of snow, so the route condition may be a bit different now ... By the way, we camped at around 5200m on the glacier. In fact, there are many places to camp on the glacier at various altitudes before going on the ridge, and even some on the wide ridge itself. In fact, there was even a very nice and sheltered site on the summit ridge, above the final difficulties, only minutes from the summit! | |
| Posted Jul 2, 2011 7:26 pm | ||
| Silvia Mazzani | North West Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2002 | |
| My first 6000, a fantastic route with a short technical pitch in upper part. For me a great satisfaction! | |
| Posted May 13, 2011 10:20 am | ||
| Bill562 | NW Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2010 | |
| Long but incredible day - morraine camp to summit and back to base camp. All the info we had on this route was indicating a moderate climb. Well, moderate my butt .... I don't think there are any moderate (AD and below) routes on any CB 6K peaks this year.. | |
| Posted Jul 25, 2010 11:49 pm | ||
| Gido | West face Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2010 | |
| After an unwanted shot of adrenaline, I dangled in the bergshrund, me and Pablo Puruncajas (ECU)summitted in perfect weather. Spectacular and steep face, the sting proved to be in Tocclaraju's tale with a nasty crevasse at the summit mushroom requiring great alertness. | |
| Posted Jul 13, 2010 7:06 am | ||
| MRoyer4 | NW Ridge Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2008 | |
| Climbed with Dan...it's a long ridge climb except for the last bit which requires some belayed climbing. | |
| Posted Mar 26, 2010 10:34 am | ||
| dancla22 | So Close | |
| Good climb up the NW ridge, just short of the bergschrund were able to look to the east and see the sun rise and then look to the west and see the moon set. Just past the bergschrund conditions deteriorated quickly and were unable to get a purchase in the snow. Great climb either way. | |
| Posted Nov 11, 2009 7:39 am | ||
| dwalters1 | NW ridge Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007 | |
| Heavy snow the two days prior to our attempt stopped us around 3 hours from the summit. Bummer, probably should have waitied another day for some guided teams to break the trail. Also, wouldn't waste my time setting up at moraine camp. I would opt to setup higher up on the glacier. | |
| Posted Oct 20, 2009 1:40 pm | ||
| bledl | west ridge | |
| Climbed the west ridge with Tyler Appetito & Kaveh Kashani. Lots of snow, no tracks or other climbers. Tyler fell into a crevasse 2 times on the descend & weather got bad. Great climb! | |
| Posted Sep 1, 2009 6:16 pm | ||
| oliverkalt | Normal route Date Climbed: May 29, 2001 | |
| I never felt worse after catching a massive stomach flu on the layover day in Huaraz. Made it but did not enjoy it. Thanks to my friends! I would never have kept going on my own. | |
| Posted Aug 7, 2009 2:23 am | ||
| Ario | via Normal Route variation Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2009 | |
| Reached the summit led by the guide in training (Aspirante Guia) Marco Pompeyo and with his brother Heimer (porter). Heimer asked me the night before whether he could join us as he had never climbed a 6000m summit, to which I agreed. He was lightly equipped thus I gave him my down jacket for the cloudy night outing. We started from the (first) high camp (5000m) on a rocky ledge at 01:15 and summited at 07:15 via a normal route variation (D), following the beaten path, with limited visibility and wind gusts up to 30 km/h. We were followed by a Spanish party (from Estramadura) and descended all together. The three other parties behind us turned back at different stages. Normally, "aspirantes" are not supposed to guide clients on 6000m summits but my UIAA membership meaning no obligation of hiring a mountain guide made the point again! | |
| Posted Jul 7, 2009 3:48 pm | ||
| hhsilleck | Route climbed: NW ridge Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007 | |
| Climbed with Derek, Oscar, and Carlos - very windy and cold on the way up, but lots of fun! Moraine camp just below the glacier is on of the most beautiful places to camp I've ever been. | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2008 6:18 pm | ||
| Ialewis | Normal Route Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007 | |
| We slogged up the normal route from below moraine camp in a half a day. The top snow/ice pitch was fun, the rest was a slog. The most amusing part of our trip was my loosing my headlamp down a crevasse. The direct route looked more interesting, I wish we had done that… | |
| Posted Jan 14, 2008 3:09 pm | ||
| ClimberMan420 | west Face Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2007 | |
| Absolutly fantastic climb, rather long from high camp climbing face with group of 3, but quick and pretty esy descent. | |
| Posted Dec 12, 2007 1:21 am | ||
| gremlin | regular route Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007 | |
| sketchy snow bridge, but other than that fun and not bad | |
| Posted Oct 24, 2007 1:27 am | ||
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