Tocllaraju Climber's Log
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|Good climb up the NW ridge, just short of the bergschrund were able to look to the east and see the sun rise and then look to the west and see the moon set. Just past the bergschrund conditions deteriorated quickly and were unable to get a purchase in the snow. Great climb either way.|
|Posted Nov 11, 2009 7:39 am|
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007
|Heavy snow the two days prior to our attempt stopped us around 3 hours from the summit. Bummer, probably should have waitied another day for some guided teams to break the trail.|
Also, wouldn't waste my time setting up at moraine camp. I would opt to setup higher up on the glacier.
|Posted Oct 20, 2009 1:40 pm|
|Climbed the west ridge with Tyler Appetito & Kaveh Kashani. Lots of snow, no tracks or other climbers. Tyler fell into a crevasse 2 times on the descend & weather got bad. Great climb!|
|Posted Sep 1, 2009 6:16 pm|
|oliverkalt||Normal route |
Date Climbed: May 29, 2001
|I never felt worse after catching a massive stomach flu on the layover day in Huaraz. Made it but did not enjoy it. Thanks to my friends! I would never have kept going on my own.|
|Posted Aug 7, 2009 2:23 am|
|Ario||via Normal Route variation |
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2009
|Reached the summit led by the guide in training (Aspirante Guia) Marco Pompeyo and with his brother Heimer (porter). Heimer asked me the night before whether he could join us as he had never climbed a 6000m summit, to which I agreed. He was lightly equipped thus I gave him my down jacket for the cloudy night outing. We started from the (first) high camp (5000m) on a rocky ledge at 01:15 and summited at 07:15 via a normal route variation (D), following the beaten path, with limited visibility and wind gusts up to 30 km/h. We were followed by a Spanish party (from Estramadura) and descended all together. The three other parties behind us turned back at different stages.|
Normally, "aspirantes" are not supposed to guide clients on 6000m summits but my UIAA membership meaning no obligation of hiring a mountain guide made the point again!
|Posted Jul 7, 2009 3:48 pm|
|hhsilleck||Route climbed: NW ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007
|Climbed with Derek, Oscar, and Carlos - very windy and cold on the way up, but lots of fun! Moraine camp just below the glacier is on of the most beautiful places to camp I've ever been.|
|Posted Jul 22, 2008 6:18 pm|
|Ialewis||Normal Route |
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007
|We slogged up the normal route from below moraine camp in a half a day. The top snow/ice pitch was fun, the rest was a slog. The most amusing part of our trip was my loosing my headlamp down a crevasse. The direct route looked more interesting, I wish we had done that…|
|Posted Jan 14, 2008 3:09 pm|
|ClimberMan420||west Face |
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2007
|Absolutly fantastic climb, rather long from high camp climbing face with group of 3, but quick and pretty esy descent.|
|Posted Dec 12, 2007 1:21 am|
|gremlin||regular route |
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007
|sketchy snow bridge, but other than that fun and not bad|
|Posted Oct 24, 2007 1:27 am|
|started out with intention to climb the west face but found conditions less than|
favorable.. so switched it up to the normal route.. after 3 or so hours in 75 mph winds
we called it a day a few hours from the summit. . very dissappointing but it was
pretty miserable to say the least.. hunched over on axes holding on for dear life got
old.. i know it doesnt have to be fun to be fun..
|Posted Jul 1, 2007 1:29 am|
|laureljarndt||Highest point |
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2005
|Just beautiful, camped in a slighly lower spot than high camp, with great sunset views. Ice walls were stepped in and fun.|
|Posted Aug 15, 2006 9:18 pm|
|Tom Fralich||NW Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2006
|Went up to high camp with Adam Jones hoping to climb the West Face, but opted for the NW Ridge due to very high winds on summit morning. It was a fairly long route with some interesting pitches, one being the summit pyramid and the other a 60m section along a rotten, icy cornice just after gaining the ridge. We spent a total of 5 days on the mountain.|
Day 1...Hike from Pashpa (3600m) to Ishinca BC (4400m)...about 8 miles
Day 2...Move to High Camp (5100m) in 3.5 hours
Day 3...Storms and bad weather, waiting in High Camp
Day 4...Summit (6032m) in about 7 hours from High Camp, return to BC
Day 5...Hike out to Pashpa
|Posted Jul 20, 2006 11:30 pm|
|iceisnice||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: june '05|
|Amazing climb!! Phenominal ice before the sun hits. Didn't actually summit. Got 7 piches up (all consistent WI4) and got very sick from the altitude and had to bail. Not hard to bail from the face as long as you know how to do v-threads.|
|Posted Oct 3, 2005 9:31 pm|
|Peak_Bagger||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 25 2005|
|Nice climb!! Left at 2am and was on top by 8:30. The wait at the first wall can be tough. I got very cold, also watch out for local guides that climb over you and cross ropes. I got my pack stuck trying to climb up. Otherwise it was pretty smooth.|
|Posted Sep 9, 2005 4:37 pm|
|GlennMerrill||Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 27, 2005|
|We started several hours after everyone else (last to leave high camp) so we didn't have to wait too long on the way up, but had to wait on the way down. Leaving late made it so the sun was up as we got high on the mountain so it wasn't really cold at all.|
|Posted Aug 8, 2005 1:05 am|
|laureljarndt||Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 19, 2005|
|Beautiful day, very warm, no wait at the first ice pitch nor at the Bergschrund, pays to be slow!|
|Posted Aug 3, 2005 10:06 am|
|althegreek||Route Climbed: nw ridge Date Climbed: july 27 2005|
|very beautiful ridge and mountain. the route is quite easy, the steep sections at the top are not very difficult. the biggest problem is waiting for groups to climb it. the wind can make the wait damn cold. we waited for a group of 4 for almost an hour at the bergshrund. a guide had to turn back because he got so cold while waiting. |
also, someone stole the trekking pole i stashed near the bergshrund, so be careful with your stuff.
still, a very asthetic route, depsite the crowds and thieves.
|Posted Jul 28, 2005 8:50 pm|
|corsalinimontaña||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: july 4th 2005|
|Excellent conditions, although there was traffic at the steep climbing sections. From the morraine camp to the summit we made 4 hours and a half.|
|Posted Jul 24, 2005 7:30 pm|
|alexclimb||Route Climbed: Nornal Date Climbed: 24 May, 2005|
|Started at 3.30 A.M., summit at 7.30. Excellent snow/ice conditions, perfect weather. Climbed free style (without rope) and thus saved a lot of time. Meet the sun just below the summit - sunrise was indescribable.|
|Posted Jun 4, 2005 8:48 am|
|silencioso||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: june/2004|
|Escalamos la ruta normal en junio de 2004.|
Salimos de huaraz en colectivo (40soles) a pasjpa y alli fuimos hasta el campamento base de la quebrada ishinca en burro (5USD un burro+10USD arriero) cada burro carga unos 40Kg.
En 4 horas se llega al C.B. a 4600m.
Del C.B. se tardan entre 2 a 4 horas en llegar al campo 1, segun nuestra forma fisica, a 5100m. Se puede montar el campamento al comienzo de la nieve o 30 minutos mas arriba.
Del C.1 salimos a las 2 am. en 3 horas se alcanza una escalera de aluminio que salva la barrera de seracs y se llega a la arista. Pasamos una primera grieta facil. Mas arriba existe otra grieta mayor, todas las cordadas de aquel dia se dieron la vuelta en la grieta pero nosotros conseguimos superarla por un delgado puente de nieve por su izquierda.
Hicimos cumbre entre las nubes y nos toco descender ya en la noche.
Damos recuerdos al grupo argentino de Toni, Laura y Sergio que nos animo a seguir y al grupo frances que nos ayudo en el descenso al C.B. cuando estabamos sufriendo una fuerte oftalmia.
Del refugio mejor no hacemos comentarios, precios muy caros y falta de ayuda cuando la necesitamos...
|Posted Aug 17, 2004 1:13 pm|