Tonis Lust : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Bergseeschijen from Bergsee Hut

Bergseeschijen summit with Schijenstock behind

Tonis Lust

Summit altitude: mt. 2815
Difficulty: TD inf., F5c
Climbing length: 300 mt.
Exposure: SSE
First ascent: Tony Fullin - Tony Gamma 1994
Starting point: Goscheneralp mt. 1602
Hut: Bergseehutte SAC m. 2370

A very fine route with solid rock and two different climbing ways: the first pitches are technical, rising along some smooth and sloping slabs; the following pitches climb on steeper rock and a bit athletic climbing style. Equipped with bolts.

Getting There

Goscheneralp Lake - Photo Silvia Mazzani

From Andermatt - a small town situated at St. Gotthard Tunnel’s northern exit (Uri Province) - follow the road to Goschenen (5 Km.); here turn to left and follow the road rising on Goschenen Valley and reaching Goscheneralpsee, with its fine artificial lake (9 km. from Goschenen). Parking. Hotel. A very good path starts from here, leading in two hours at Bergsee Hut SAC (Swiss Alpine Club), mt. 2370, open in summer, situated below Bergseeschijen.

Tonis Lust report

A party on Bergseeschijen SSE Face - Photo Silvia Mazzani august 2010

Tonis Lust Route sixth pitch - Photo Silvia Mazzani august 2010

First pitchs' slabs

Tonis Lust report (French Scale)

From Bergseehutte head towards right to take a steep slope reaching a little col, between the South Face and a detached tower (Vorbau), situated below Bergseeschijen classic South Ridge (10 min.). From here take a ledge towards right, running below a fine and compact granite slab with different routes’ starting points. Follow the ledge for about 15-20 meters; Tonis Lust starting is situated on the right end of the ledge, just before the ledge begins to ascent with a rocky step.

L1 – Climb a smooth slab, then some thin cracks to the belay (5b). Technical climb.
L2 – Some little walls with thin cracks to a belay under a little ridge (4b).
L3 – With easy climb along the ridge, then towards left to the belay (3c).
L4 - Towards right climb a little corner, then slantways along easier rocks, reaching a belay below the route’s steeper second part (4c).
L5 - A bit slantways to a slope with thin cracks and small corners, then up along a steep wall (5b).
L6 – A steep climb up along some corners and a crack (5c).
L7- Towards left with a curious pass, then climb a cracks’system along a slab to a belay below a deep corner (5c).
L8 – Up along the corner, then a slab to a comfortable stance along South Ridge classic Route (5b).
L9 and L10 – Climb the South Ridge’ last two pitches until an horizontal ridge which leads to the summit. A wide spectacular views over Uri Alps’ range.

Descent: along Normal Route, an easy scramble with a short equipped section.