This route climb the highest summit (2350m) of Torre Grande, the highest one of Cinque Torri Group.
It’s the normal route, so the difficulties are quite low, but the climb is anyway amusing and quite long compared with Cinque Torri standards. The view among the route is amazing.
The rock is good but a little bit greasy in some spots, the lenght is about 150/180m, III+ UIAA
Best season to climb: june-september.
ApproachingFrom Scoiattoli Hut, take the trail leading towards Torre Grande Cima Ovest, than turn on your left and go round until you arrive at the feet of the couloir dividing Torre Ovest from Torre Nord (at your back, Torre Latina). Here starts the route (about 20 min from Scoiattoli Hut)
Belays are all equipped with an iron ring fixed with cement.
Pitch 1: go in the couloir, staying on the right of a wide crack, then move on your left and enter in a chimney (bolt, two hitch pins in the rock make easier a pass of IV on greasy rock); climb up the chimney until you reach the belay iron ring (25m, III and IV/A0, 1 bolt).
Pitch 2: walk toward left, then climb up an easy little wall (15m, II/III, no piton, belay on a spike)
Pitch 3: in simul-climbing (the most part is a walk) go on the left passing on narrow ledges, climb up a little cliff with an embedded stone (II+), then traverse an exposed wall using a fixed cable to some big blocks; go up (a pass of III+, quite overhanging) until you reach the feet of a rock wall, on a large terrace (about 100m, some passes of III, no pitons, no belay)
Pitch 4 and Pitch 5 (we joined them): climb up the rock wall on the left of a couloir (possibility of protection with camalot #2 after 10m), then climb up toward right (tunnel with cordelettes), enter in a chimney and rise it up to the belay ring, few meters under the summit(50m, III+ continuous, no pitons, 1 tunnel equipped with cords, possibility to split in 2 pitches belaying on the tunnel)
On the same way, with two rappels of 60m (the first from the summit to the start of pitch 4, the second from the bealy of pitch 2 to the start of the route) or with four shorter rappels (pithc 5, pitch 4, pitch 2, pitch 1)
Essential GearHelmet and a small climbing rack (a few nuts, medium sized friends, cords, slings)
Books, guides, maps, external links
Guide and Maps:
M. Bernardi “Dolomiti. Arrampicare a Cortina e dintorni”, Athesia, 2005
Best map is “Cortina d’Ampezzo e Dolomiti ampezzane”, Tabacco, foglio 03.
Dolmiti Meteo (a cura del Dipartimento per la Sicurezza del Territorio - Centro Valanghe di Arabba)
Live view on Cinque Torri