Short but interesting route, climbing one of the most important towers of Cinque Torri group.
The route follows a natural line, exploiting two couloirs/chimneys.
The difficulties are medium/low, with possibility of a nice variant more demanding in the exit of the route (IV+/V- UIAA)
The rock is good in the pitch 2, but quite bad in the middle part of pitch 1: keep attention! The lenght is about 70m, IV+ UIAA (IV obligatory)
Best season to climb: may-october.
ApproachingFrom Scoiattoli Hut, Torre Latina is clearly visible, on the left of Torre Grande. Take the trail leading towards Torre Grande Cima Ovest. Before you come too close to the towers, turn on your left and go down on a trail crossing the meadows toward Torre Latina. In about 20 min from Scoiattoli Hut, you reach the start of the route (the start is at about the middle of the east face, where the grass goes a bit higher.)
Belays are on rock.
Pitch 1: climb up a vertical couloir/chimney until you reach a peg, then go up, turning a little on your left (tunnel good for protect); now, climb up in a dihedral/chimney on yellow rock (attention, quite bad rock!), then exit on wide ledge covered in gravel, where you can belay on a rock (25m, IV on bad rock, 1 peg, belay on rock).
Pitch 2: enter in a clearly visible chimney on the left; follow the chimney (1 peg on the left after about 10/15m), until you are near to the exit on the summit: from here you can climb a vertical slab (5/10m, IV+/V-) or follow the chimney until you reach the summit (35m, IV+ - IV obligatory -, 1 piton, possibility to protect with medium nuts and friends, belay on rock)
From the summit you can abseil with only one rappel of 50m: anchor on the right (south west) on a mugo pine with cords.
Helmet and a small climbing rack (a few nuts, medium sized friends, cords, slings)
Books, guides, maps, external linksGuide and Maps:
M. Bernardi “Dolomiti. Arrampicare a Cortina e dintorni”, Athesia, 2005
Best map is “Cortina d’Ampezzo e Dolomiti ampezzane”, Tabacco, foglio 03.
Dolomiti Meteo (a cura del Dipartimento per la Sicurezza del Territorio Centro Valanghe di Arabba)
Live view on Cinque Torri