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Torre Latina - East Face Normal Route
Route

Torre Latina - East Face Normal Route

 
Torre Latina - East Face Normal Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.55437°N / 12.07260°E

Object Title: Torre Latina - East Face Normal Route

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Difficulty: IV+ UIAA (IV obligatory)

Number of Pitches: 2

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: RenatoG

Created/Edited: Sep 1, 2007 / Sep 16, 2007

Object ID: 331493

Hits: 7075 

Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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Overview

 
Torre Latina - East Face
 

Short but interesting route, climbing one of the most important towers of Cinque Torri group.

The route follows a natural line, exploiting two couloirs/chimneys.

The difficulties are medium/low, with possibility of a nice variant more demanding in the exit of the route (IV+/V- UIAA)

The rock is good in the pitch 2, but quite bad in the middle part of pitch 1: keep attention! The lenght is about 70m, IV+ UIAA (IV obligatory)

Best season to climb: may-october.
 
Torre Latina - East Face
 

Approaching

From Scoiattoli Hut, Torre Latina is clearly visible, on the left of Torre Grande. Take the trail leading towards Torre Grande Cima Ovest. Before you come too close to the towers, turn on your left and go down on a trail crossing the meadows toward Torre Latina. In about 20 min from Scoiattoli Hut, you reach the start of the route (the start is at about the middle of the east face, where the grass goes a bit higher.)

Route Description

 
Torre Latina - East Face
 
 
Torre Latina - East Face
 


Belays are on rock.

Pitch 1: climb up a vertical couloir/chimney until you reach a peg, then go up, turning a little on your left (tunnel good for protect); now, climb up in a dihedral/chimney on yellow rock (attention, quite bad rock!), then exit on wide ledge covered in gravel, where you can belay on a rock (25m, IV on bad rock, 1 peg, belay on rock).

Pitch 2: enter in a clearly visible chimney on the left; follow the chimney (1 peg on the left after about 10/15m), until you are near to the exit on the summit: from here you can climb a vertical slab (5/10m, IV+/V-) or follow the chimney until you reach the summit (35m, IV+ - IV obligatory -, 1 piton, possibility to protect with medium nuts and friends, belay on rock)

Descent

From the summit you can abseil with only one rappel of 50m: anchor on the right (south west) on a mugo pine with cords.

Essential Gear

Torre Latina - East Face
 


Helmet and a small climbing rack (a few nuts, medium sized friends, cords, slings)


Books, guides, maps, external links

Guide and Maps:

M. Bernardi “Dolomiti. Arrampicare a Cortina e dintorni”, Athesia, 2005

Best map is “Cortina d’Ampezzo e Dolomiti ampezzane”, Tabacco, foglio 03.

Weather condition:

Dolomiti Meteo (a cura del Dipartimento per la Sicurezza del Territorio Centro Valanghe di Arabba)

Web Cam:

Live view on Cinque Torri

Accomodations:

Scoiattoli Hut

Images