The great treasure of Holy Cross: WATER
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson

I first climbed Holy Cross with my long time climbing partner Mark Anderson in 1985. We were so impressed, we returned with his wife in 1986. I climbed it again that year with friends Mike Kloepfer and Marty Ring. Subsequent climbs involved long time climbing partner Vernon Garner, as well as Betsy Chalender, Robin Wright, Amanda Burns, and Lori Promenshenkel. I've climbed Holy Cross 8 times, all slight variations to the standard route. I've been mostly fortunate with the weather in this area, which is renowned for storms that are made from the stuff of nightmares. I have travelled the Holy Cross Wilderness extensively, save for the western areas around Gold Dust Peak, where Captain Craig Button flew his fighter jet into the side of that very attractive mountain.

Aspens add to the already overwhelming beauty of the Holy Cross Wilderness
Photo by Kane

This is one of the prettiest areas in Colorado, even rivaling the beauty of the San Juans. Holy Cross has a colorful history, which I strongly suggest reading if you are interested in such. Possibilities for hiking, climbing and camping are endless. Best approaches are from the Homestake Valley, the Tigiwon Road out of Minturn, and north approaches out of Eagle. Recommended spots to visit are Missouri Lakes, Seven Sisters Lakes, Patricia Lake, the Bowl of Tears, Notch Mountain Shelter (where one legendary view of Holy Cross can be viewed) and Lake Constantine. I've climbed Notch, the Bowl of Tears Rim, Whitney Peak and Savage Peak.

Pamphlet on saving Holy Cross from water diversion plans
Photo of Holy Cross Defense Fund article by Aaron Johnson

Holy Cross is a pristine, wild land, and a significant watershed for both the eastern and western slopes of Colorado. In 1987, I got involved with the Holy Cross Wilderness Defense Fund, a grass roots organization bent on foiling attempts at further diversion of water from the Wilderness. Homestake Phase One is evident in the same named valley, with diversion tunnels and dams. The Wilderness, established later, wraps around this multiple use recreation area. I am a musician, and I recorded an album of instrumental music to help promote the awareness of what was going on in Holy Cross. The cities of Aurora and Colorado Springs wanted to divert more water from the East Cross Creek area, at the base of the Mountain, which had western slope communities in an uproar. My work with the Defense Fund, led by controvesial figure Warren Hern of Boulder, was eventually successful. No further incursions into the wilderness have been made, although it remains a possibility, especially in these recent times of drought and ever expanding population.

Routes overview of the Holy Cross Wilderness
Embellishments by Aaron Johnson utilizing Corel Photo Paint software

The standard route starts at the end of the Tigiwon road, climbing over the north shoulder of Notch mountain. The well-worn trail drops 800 feet to the gorgeous valley floor of East Cross Creek. An awesome view of the mountain greets you here. You'll be rendered speechless. There used to be great camping here, and the water is unbeatable. However, heavy use has resulted in all the good sites being closed by the Forest Service. There was camping further to the west in 1993, but it was a distance from the East Cross Creek stream. From the vicinity of these western camps, the trail ascends the north ridge of Holy Cross, and follows it to the summit block, where the climb proceeds over large, sturdy boulders eastward to the summit.

"The Mountain" from near the Notch Mountain Shelter, looking west
Photo by Aaron Johnson

This hike is a joy in great weather, which I've had the good fortune of on all but one attempt. In bad weather, this place becomes your worst nightmare. If you are attempting the mountain in one day, do not continue if you reach Notch Mountain's shoulder and notice the weather is looking questionable. Return another day. You are pretty much committed to retreat to East Cross Creek's valley from any other location. A retreat from the valley over Notch Mountain could put you right up IN THE STORM, so wait it out. Your best option is to camp in the East Cross Creek area, climb the mountain early in the day and pack out that afternoon or following morning. This strategy has worked well for me in dodging the storms.

Notorious Holy Cross weather prepares for the afternoon show
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson

If caught on the mountain, DO NOT DESCEND westward off of the ridge. This puts you in Cross Creek, much farther from where you need to be. Rescues have reached epic levels plucking people from this very remote and merciless area. Keep your head and descend the route. In a severe emergency, a descent off the east side of the ridge is possible for experienced climbers who can keep an eye out for cliff bands and breaks in the defenses. Judicious route finding should keep you in Class 2+ terrain. Wait out the storm before attempting to go back over Notch Mountain, an 800 foot elevation gain. If you are rescued, it will cost you plenty. This is wilderness, so helicopter rescues don't happen unless your situation is dire and life threatening. You will be expected to walk out with your rescuers.

Upper Tuhare Lake as seen from Halo Ridge
Photo by Aaron Johnson

An alternate route is Halo Ridge, from the top of Notch mountain, winding southward, westward, then northward to the mountain, then joining the standard route for the return. This is a spectacular undertaking (22 miles) all above timberline. An unGodly early start is mandatory, as there is no reasonable bail route from this ridge that wouldn't put you a ludicrous distance from your starting point. Research your route choice and know your options (which aren't many). If caught and you decide to hunker down, your chances are better at surviving and returning via the route you used. You'll likely not forget your experience in a Holy Cross storm, but you'll be grateful for making an informed and planned decision that enables you to return. Most folks who see this area return repeatedly, regardless of their previous experience, because the place is beautiful beyond belief.

A climber gazes down the east face near the Cross Couloir Route (Class 3)
Photo by Aaron Johnson

The mountain itself is no harder than Class 2. A technical climb of the legendary Cross couloir with snow is rated Class 3 by Gerry Roach. Take time to plan and research your trip, and if you can, take time during your visit. Side trips to the Bowl of Tears and Patricia Lake are worth the effort. You'll be emotionally moved, and you'll want to linger in this mountain paradise.

In closing, though, a short story and warning: On my one aborted attempt, Vern, Amanda and I were packing up to get out of East Cross Creek. The weather was looking very ugly. A yuppie guy and two gorgeous girls, wearing shorts, tank tops and little else came galloping by our camp. I asked where they were bound, and he said he was a guide (hah) taking these babes (direct out of Vail 90210) up Holy Cross. I called him a fool, and doubted out loud that he was truly a guide. He took offense, although one of his charges started to look concerned as I warned them about the impending onslaught. He pretty much gave me the finger and they carried on. We left. The mountain looked pretty grim, swathed in clouds as we left the shoulder of Notch Mountain in spitting sleet.

The following weekend, I was in Avon doing a TV interview for the Defense Fund and the reporter informed me that they had an interesting weekend in the Wilderness last week. It seems a guy and two girls (he noted they were gorgeous, and described them perfectly) had to be rescued from the west side of the mountain. The guy had abandoned the girls. He was found in Cross Creek. The girls were left stranded on the mountain, huddling, half frozen after a very long night on the ridge. Other than humiliated egos, they were lucky enough to be unharmed, but they were clearly shaken by their overnight ordeal in a storm they described as "catastrophic." One girl was hysterical, demanding that a helicopter be sent to fly her home, as far away from her guide as possible. I bet my words of warning echoed in her mind for weeks to come. Obviously, she was forced to walk out. I'm sure the rescuers found this a pleasing experience.

The story turned out well, so it's humorus. Just don't let it happen to you. Do not overestimate your ability. Be in good shape before attempting this mountain, use common sense, and do not underestimate the seriousness of this area and the storms that take place here. If you gamble, you'll get clobbered, maybe worse. And like that beautiful person from Vail, should you survive, it'll be a nightmare you'll never forget. Do all you can to make your visit to Holy Cross safe, memorable and pleasant.

Good luck!

Aaron Johnson

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