| #5: Two Trips to the Needles Trip Report |
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| #5: Two Trips to the Needles   | 
| Page Type: Trip Report Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 37.62720°N / 107.5953°W Date Climbed/Hiked: Sep 5, 1984 | Page By: Aaron Johnson Created/Edited: Jul 16, 2002 / Aug 14, 2008 Object ID: 168610 Hits: 1328 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
I visited the Needles twice. Once in late August of 1980, and again in September of 1984. The latter trip was done in hopes of success going in after the monsoons, but the storms lasted longer that year, and both trips were, for all intents and purposes, disasters due to the notorious San Juan weather.
The first trip was really a proposed hike, weaving through the Needles over the course of a week, on a great grand tour of this majestic area. We had hoped to pass through the Sunlight-Windom saddle, drop down to Sunlight Lake, and over the next six days, weave around Jagged and Leviathan mountains and hike out along the north side of the Grenadiers to Elk Park, where the train would pick us up.
The San Juan weather was especially bad that year. I was living in Ouray that summer and saw all the flooding and mudslides first hand. The rubble from the Amphitheater destroyed the two sluices that run through town and caused substantial damage to a number of prized historical buildings. Red Mountain Pass was closed repeatedly. Cascade Falls was changed forever by falling boulders the size of cars crashing down and destroying the ledge that created the cascade effect. I was chased off practically every mountain I climbed that year by weather, as early as 9:00 am. The angry monsoon season did not abate on our visit in the Needles. The trip only lasted three days. On our return to Ouray, we drove through Telluride over Imogene Pass. It wasn't even September and the first substantial snow had fallen. We drove through 4 inches on top of the pass, which made for an interesting traverse of the shelf road above Imogene basin.
Entering the Needles from Needleton Bridge, we were forced to stop and camp half way up Needle Creek because of pouring rain. The trail was slick and muddy, and we were totally soaked. Having reached the Windom-Sunlight saddle in full gear the next day, we dropped about four hundred feet toward Sunlight Lake when the weather got incredibly ugly looking. These were some of the nastiest clouds I had ever seen in the San Juans. We retreated back to Columbine Basin and camped, enduring another endless deluge. On the third morning, we woke to low clouds and light rain, which quickly boiled into angry thunderstorms long before noon. We were back at the tracks and headed for Ouray that afternoon.
I returned in 1984 to try the 14ers and managed to claim Windom, but the story was like a TV rerun. The weather was just awful. A violent storm clobbered our group as we climbed the headwall to Twin Lakes. My partner Mark's boots filled up with hail before he had a chance to put on his poncho. He had to thaw out his feet while I went back down the trail to aid the others. Another in our party was showing signs of hypothermia, so we had to get her warm and dry immediately. The climb of Windom went well the next day, but our success was short lived by the gathering clouds that looked identical to my previous visit. We bailed back to our Twin Lakes camp and the weather really let loose. The next morning, the mountains were surrounded by ominous fog and barely visible. Thunder was grumbling by 9:00 am. We folded camp and cleared out under blasts of thunder. The rain held off until we got to the tracks and the safety of the shelter at Needleton bridge. Then it poured billions of gallons of water, and the thunder in the Animas Canyon sounded like cannons going off in our ears. We had to yell at each other to carry on a conversation. I have never seen so many soggy people in one place in my life.
The Needles are known as the Storm Factory, and for good reason. Save for the exceptional years, such as this 2002 drought year, this place makes its own weather on a whim, and I've heard story after story that supports this statement. I'm also convinced that because I'm there, it's going to rain. It's just my luck! I've had great luck the past five years, but I could go to the Needles in this drought year, and it would pour so much the San Juan drought would probably end. I would gladly go to the trouble to help the San Juans if I didn't mind swimming in cold water. Perhaps I should try climbing the Needles this year, since rain seems to be a thing of the past. In 1994, I did a week long llama trip up the Vallecito drainage in similar drought conditions. Never saw a cloud! You know what-I missed the clouds! The weather was great for the trip, but lousy for everything else.
My advice ot those who venture into the Needles: In normal years, expect to do serious battle with the elements. Go prepared and be in excellent shape. Get up and climb early-early-early. I understand the goats and marmots are no longer intimidated by people and will help themselves to your belongings, and even try to lick your pee as you urinate-fresh from the spigot, if you will! While this brings to mind some hilarious visions, it's a testament of shame to what desensitizing wild animals can lead to. This once wild wilderness has become a joke, and that's a shame. Twin Lakes, apparently closed because of this problem, is a glimpse of things to come for other over used areas. What do we do about it? I don't know. It's the nature of the beast. Some areas were destined for this, others will be spared. This is just another unique thing that will make your trip to the Needles a one-of-a-kind experience. I'm thankful I was able to see it before these apparently permanent changes came along. The drought and the fires may have impacts we are not yet fully aware of. Only time will tell.
Though my experience is considerable, I've never had any intention of doing all of the 14ers for a variety of reasons. Given all that I've discussed in this report, it seems unlikely I would return to tempt fate yet again. A recent photo contribution of the summit by another climber does an excellent job of illustrating what the top of Sunlight is like. The Needles will always command my uttmost attention. I may venture in again one day, if I get the hankering, but until then, to those of you to visit the Needles, I wish you luck.
And make sure you have a snorkel!
To read about the 4th most impressive storm event in my 37 years of climbing, visit Mount Tabeguache via this trip report. Images
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San Juan Range
