Class 3 scrambling along the west side of the Needles on the South Ridge route
Photo by Aaron Johnson

I had not climbed this route since 1978, so it might as well have been a new route. I remembered it being fun and somewhat exposed, but I also learned my memory wasn't as clear as I thought. The route climbs from Blue Lakes Pass right up amidst the needles so dramatically visible from Yankee Boy basin. I did not remember climbing this high into the needles before, and I may not have, but the obvious route is the one to follow. Look for well traveled areas and occasional cairns and you'll do fine. One should have experience in climbing before attempting this route. Good practice routes are Democrat's alternate southeast ridge (Class 2), the Mt. Evans summit ridge (Class2), Arapaho Peaks traverse (Class 3), Wetterhorn (Class 3) or Kelso Ridge on Torreys (Class 3).

Jim Lierman starts the traverse across the west face of a pinnacle on the Sneffels South Ridge Route
Photo by Aaron Johnson

The route winds through many fun scrambling situations, but you know a downclimb is coming. When viewing the ridge from Yankee Boy, a large notch that appears impassable implies an obvious downclimb. The route does drop down along the east face of a large, craggy buttress north of the needles. There are many possibilities here, including dropping into the couloir. We preferred to stay high and traverse the face, which is brief and a bit exposed. The climb then resumes up steep chutes, one fun scramble after another. A scurry up a narrow gully puts you up on the ridge proper.

Beginning the direct ascent on thes south ridge
Photo by Aaron Johnson

From here, I recall staying on top of the ridge in '78. Exposure on both sides is considerable if you do this, but it is solid and pleasant climbing. We followed the well-worn route this time and executed many fun and exciting moves on the east side of the ridge. Crossing a loose gully, another Class 3 route with a number of readily visible, well travelled areas, we were carefull not to dislodge any rocks. Above this, the climbing scales smooth, rounded rock that offered solid but little holds. This was an ivigorating stretch with considerable exposure. We once again ended up on the ridge top, which you can follow to the summit or stay to the right. I remember scooting up this the first time ('78), a prelude to the Knife Edge many years later. This time, I walked up, as it is broad and solid. As usual, loose rocks are abundant on Mt. Sneffles. Tread with care and check all holds.

Direct assault on the ridge line itself, which is followed to the summit
Photo by Ellen Ritt

We descended the standard route. The class 3 route is a gas and makes for a wonerful loop trip, and firmly solidifies the mighty Mt. Sneffles as my favorite 14er--still!

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